Morris Minor Owners Club

and if so, how did it work for you?

All of those "converters" did not work well for me. Try painting two layers of converter over the machine wire brushed rust, then next day sand the black coating and be shocked at how much rust is still there. The best thing to do is remove rust altogether if you can- either chemically, physically or a combination of the two. Otherwise it will come back eventually.

Try painting two layers of converter over the machine wire brushed rust, then next day sand the black coating and be shocked at how much rust is still there.

Have done and was!
I have been told that products containing acid are the most effective ones, after scraping rust away, well apart from cutting out and replacing with new metal. Jenolite works for me.

ever used Kurust?

I used something similar on my first Minor - and again was surprised about the lack of 'rust conversion' underneath.
These days I use an angle grinder instead.

ever used the correct forum for technical posts? Mechanical / Electrical / Bodywork etc...

I've moved this one out of the wrong area.

Kurust gives a nice sheen to rusty wiper motors and other bare metal stuff in the engine bay. However it only works temporarily where moisture is present - so as a serious rust preventer for body panels I think it isn't worth using.

Everyone I knew who used Kurust reported that the rust returned sooner
or later. I have used Jenolite for a long time and,provided it is used properly, it has worked very well for me on areas where the rust pitting is too deep to be removed by any sort of abrasives. it is based on phosphoric acid which, I assume is the basis of most rust converters.
There are two types of Jenolite available, a liquid and a Gel, I do not get on with the gel type.

Willie wrote: it is based on phosphoric acid which, I assume is the basis of most rust converters.
There are two types of Jenolite available, a liquid and a Gel, I do not get on with the gel type.

Jenolite is indeed phosphoric acid. And guess what else is?

Milkstone remover, as sold by agricultural supply places (including Scats). Jenolite is £lots for not much, milkstone remover is just under a tenner for nearly a gallon!

I use it in a hand held garden type spray, so there's a fine mist over the metal. An accidental test showed it certainly seemed to prevent surface rust forming on bare metal after a rainy day, though of coruse the idea with any treatment is to halt the rot and put a fresh barrier (ie paint) over it. I would suggest some sort of mask or at least being outside if misting phosphoric acid though, as when applying it and for a few minutes after breathing in was less than pleasant near the treated area!

I know someone who used Kurust on his Mini A panels, and it's already starting to bubble slightly again - Was done about 18 months ago IIRC.

For derusting parts rather than bodyshells (unless you have a really big tank) take a look at my sig - I'm really impressed with how well the parts I've electrically derusted have come out

Packedup wrote:For derusting parts rather than bodyshells (unless you have a really big tank) take a look at my sig

It says:
"! Error ! Sorry You are not authorized to access Articles."

Both are indeed phosphoric acid - and they cannot work miracles. If there is a very little surface rust - due to a paint chip or similar - then sure, they may indeed 'kill' the rust. They will not kill rust that is eating through from the other side of the panel (ie Mini A panels etc) . Nothing will - except a welding machine. beware - any of these acids will burn your skin and are horrible in the eyes!!

alex_holden wrote:

Packedup wrote:For derusting parts rather than bodyshells (unless you have a really big tank) take a look at my sig

It says:
"! Error ! Sorry You are not authorized to access Articles."

You're right. Hmmm, I only spent an entire night through to the following morning installing that bit of the site, and then another hour or so doing the write up.

Hateful POS.

Basically, water, battery charger, washing soda. Take one rusty part, leave bubbling away for a day or two, and voila, no rustyness anymore

bmcecosse wrote:Both are indeed phosphoric acid - and they cannot work miracles. If there is a very little surface rust - due to a paint chip or similar - then sure, they may indeed 'kill' the rust. They will not kill rust that is eating through from the other side of the panel (ie Mini A panels etc) . Nothing will - except a welding machine. beware - any of these acids will burn your skin and are horrible in the eyes!!

As far as I can tell the A panel is rusting from the visible side due to a stonechip... But it's not my car and I'm not bothered enough to be sure of that!

I haven't noticed any skin problems from phosphoric acid - Certainly it seems OK for a few minutes, unlike Nitromors which hurts like hell after a few seconds... But as with any corrosive chemical, safety is paramount so goggles, gloves etc are a must (or at least a must advise...).

I totally agree treating the rust you can see is pointless if it's a result of the rust you can't, but quite often the rust you can see is nothing more than that, which is where a chemical treatment comes in handy

Link in sig should now be working, after a fashion... Not that it's relevent for bodywork, but I suppose you could dip bits of wings in the bath (if you're single ;) )

Hi all, I used kurust, apparently its the same liquid as the Wurth rust treatment, I used it in areas where rust was difficult to get by hand and as a sort of protection to bare metal, because when I stripped the chassis back to bare metal I gave a coat of kurust to it and 3 layers of Zinch rich primer on it, hopefully this will protect against further rust.