Morris Minor Owners Club

I was tinkering on the Lowlight today (yay!! ), and thinking of looking at my rear wheel cylinders.

Problem is I can't get the drum off.

It is a completely different system to the later Austin axle (as introduced in the Series II)

It seems to be a complete unit, with the bearing in the drum

Any ideas how to get it off?

I can put some piccies up if needed

i assume you have adjusted the brakes and handbrake so they are loose and you are likely to need a hub puller

Yes, all loose, but where should I find a hub puller that big?

A slide hammer?

How do those work? I don't want risk damaging the drums, as they seem a wee bit hard to get.

they pull the hubs off

http://www.trueshopping.co.uk/product.p ... Hub_Puller

slide puller
http://www.trueshopping.co.uk/product.p ... Hub_Puller

I have had success before with putting the wheel studs on till they just bite (so the wheel is still loose) and use the wheel to shock off the hub. If it is stuck too firmly you may damage something, but for me, so far so good

I also think I have a square diff somewhere with the same type of hub (it was a highlight though) if you get stuck, but postage might be a tad expensive

John

Hi Onne

I have these hubs/drums on mine. I have used 2 large screwdrivers as levers between the drum & the backplate and they came off quite easily.

You could put the wheel bolts in with a repair washer under the head & use a puller on these.

Rog

I will try the screwdriver method I am sure they have been off less than 5 years ago

Just use the wheel (as above) to shoogle it off.

The drum slides over the axle splines & fits on a taper so chances are it's stuck on the taper.
Once you've shocked it off, you'll see how it works.
The bearing is on the axle itself, not the hub/drum.
Smear the taper & axle splines with a bit of grease & it'll come off easy next time.

Oh, and make sure the axle nut is done up nice & tight. I haven't found a torque setting for it yet but it has to be very tight.

Here's what the workshop manual has to say. It seems more concerned with damage on reassemby than on getting it off in the first place. It recommends a universal hub puller, using two bolts to attach to the drum. (Not the claw type that grips the edges).

"The wheel hub is locked to the axle half-shaft by means of a tapered split collar in addition to the driving splines. It is therefore to be expected that some resistance will be evident when the extractor is used to free the hub from the taper.

When replacing the rear hub it is essential to make quite sure that the tapered split collar is right home against the inner race of the wheel bearing before any attempt is made to offer up the hub. It is, in fact, advisable to tap the collar lightly into position with a hide hammer, taking the utmost care not to damage it in any way.

It is also essential to see that the parallel portion of the collar engaging with the oil seal is absolutely free from blemishes before it is replaced and that the oil seal is not damaged in any way."

cheers,

Axolotl

I'm sure my old Series Es were never as difficult as this - did they not use the Series E axle on the MM ? They did use the engine and box - just seems it would have made sense to use the matching axle too.

I am sure they do Roy. It does very much remind me of the (1933) Morris 10/4 I maintained for a friend of mine.

Would it be too much of a risk to use the type of puller with the claws?
Those behind the lip of the drum, the centre bit on the halfshaft end?

I guess if people have done it using a pair of screwdrivers as levers, they'd be working on the outside edge of the drum too, so a three clawed puller will probably be all right.

It's just that the official tool is the bolt-on type, putting the drawing force nearer the centre of the drum where it is thicker. Levering at the outside edge will tend to "bow" the drum more, and cast iron doesn't like bending.

If you're using the claw type, put some tension on it, and if the drum doesn't move, try hitting the drum sideways with a soft-faced hammer, as Scott says to "shock" it off the taper. If it still won't move, apply a bit more tension, and another few sideways taps and so on. Don't just crank up the tension, as that will risk breaking the drum.

I have to say I'm glad I have the easy newer drums that just lift off when you undo the screw.

I might invest in a proper puller then. I am in no hurry after all, there is plenty left to do, believe me!

Thanks for all the advice all of you!

I don't remember ever having any probs getting at the brakes on the 3 * Series Es that I had ! And we were often in at the brakes - boiling up the shoes in washing soda to get the oil out the linings - it never really worked - but always manged to scrape an MOT.