Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello,

I've just test-driven a 1962 moggy (very first time I'm driving a moggy) and found that there was a lot of play in the gear stick and that there was a cranking noise when changing gear.

You could also hear a lot of clicking from the engine when in 3rd gear, probably the timing chain.

Are these standard features or signs that some work may be needed?

I'm hesitating between buying this car, which has a good bodywork and interior, or trying to find a later one with a 1098cc engine.

Is there a lot of difference between the two generations of cars, or is it more down to a good one vs. a bad one?

Regards,
Pascal

With a minor body condition is most important as this is the most difficult/expensive to put right. If you are going to stick with a standard interior get a good one as again this is expensive. Compared to bodywork changing an engine or other drivetrain component is easy. If this was my choice I would choose the structurally best car and use the drivetrain condition to savagely reduce the price (but i do have a spare engine and gearbox available). I would say the 948 has a little more period charm than a 1098 but theres not much in it. Happy hunting.

I've just test-driven a 1962 moggy (very first time I'm driving a moggy) and found that there was a lot of play in the gear stick and that there was a cranking noise when changing gear.

Cranking noise - not sure what you mean? You will hear a crunching noise going into first if you're not careful (no synchromesh).

948s are generally considered to be smoother running than a 1098. The major difference is the 0-60 time (24.8 compared to 30) and top speed (78 to 73mph). Also the 1098s have larger & more effective front brakes. There's not too much difference driving around town.

The 'cranking' noise may be due to either the tickover being too fast or
the clutch pedal has too much play. The 948 engine is certainly the smoothest but the 1098 is more suited to todays traffic.

I would be very wary of a mechanically suspect car with good bodywork. It is far more common to find the mechanicals better than the bodywork. Pay very close attention to the body and look to see if the car has been tarted up with a cheap respray hiding a multitude of rot and/or filler.

The noise sounds like it is a badly worn gearbox - crunching in the gears - and you will not hear the 'timing chain' when in 3rd gear. So - budget for a gearbox change. But as above - body condition is EVERYTHING - the mechanicals are easy and inexpensive to fix. But is the body really as good as you think ? I would be susprised if someone who took good care of the body - didn't also look after the mechanicals!

I've actually decided to take my time and test drive a few others (especially 66-70 ones) to get a better feel of what to expect. A friend of mine had two minors (a 62 and a 70) and he confirmed that the 62 felt more 'agricultural', mainly due to the unsynchronised gearbox. He found the 70 offered a driving experience closer to more modern cars (80's).

I've let go the 62 and it just went for £1550 on eBay. I don't think I would have paid more for it.

Regards,
Pascal

he confirmed that the 62 felt more 'agricultural', mainly due to the unsynchronised gearbox.

Not my area of expertise, but the 948 has also got synchromesh on 2nd 3rd & 4th gears. I believe the 1098 gearbox gives more precise gear changes.

The 948's had syncromesh - it just doesn't last long! The 1098 gearbox is much better overall - and the engine a good bit more powerful. But it's chassis and body that matter - not the mechanicals.

Best boxes are the 1098 and the sidevalve box. Both very strong.

I think someone down under has actually pout a sidevalve box on a 1098 and was very pleased. But this is utterly besides the point.

I can sure say that an 803 box is somewhat agricultural, but you get used to it

Onne wrote:I think someone down under has actually pout a sidevalve box on a 1098 and was very pleased. But this is utterly besides the point.

That doesn't normally stop you though, Onne .