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Morris - Engine Keeps Running After Ignition Off
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:14 pm
by coogee
Update:
Heater not working:
When ignitions is off the heat works and when I turn the ignition on the heater stops.
When the heater is on the cars engine dose not stop so I have to turn off the heater to stop the engine
Can any one help?
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Yesterday I went for a drive in my minor. I turned the key to stop the engine running but when I pulled the key out the engine carried on running.
Has any one else had this problem?
Topic Title edited by Gareth for clarity
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:17 pm
by coogee
It's fine now
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:54 pm
by bmcecosse
When the lock gets worn it's often possible to pull the key out without turning off the ignition. And equally possible to start the car with any old key! If it bothers you - get a new ignition lock.
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:00 pm
by coogee
I did not even pull the key out. I turned the key round and pulled it out to turn off the engine and it carried on.
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:03 pm
by bmcecosse
Definitey get a new lock organised then !
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:06 pm
by Onne
Nothing to do with a coked up head?
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:10 pm
by bmcecosse
Puling off a lead stopped it!
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:16 pm
by coogee
yes the HD lead
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:29 pm
by Onne
Fair enough then. Make sure the rest is off as well though, otherwise you may have a flat battery!
Posted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 11:25 pm
by badfelafel
i used to have an old golf with a coked up head and it would carry on burbling away for 2-3 mins after the current was cut
Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 4:07 pm
by bmcecosse
What's an 'HD' lead ?
Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:33 pm
by bigginger
A mis-spelled HT lead, I'd guess...
running on
Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:31 pm
by Willie
Try lowering the tickover speed if the ignition light is not just glowing on tick-
over.
Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:39 pm
by coogee
The problem is the lock. What part of the lock would i have to replace the ignition Switch - Key Start Barrel & Keys-Ignition Switch (All Models) MMCBATH PART NO('S):SWH117
or
Barrel & Keys-Ignition Switch MMCBATH PART NO('S):SWH117 [KEY109]
Please
Thanks Phil
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Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:51 pm
by Onne
The only difference I can think of at the moment is the early and the late barrels.
Yours being a '66 should have a key start. Give them a call if you're not sure.
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:14 am
by bmcecosse
Yes - early cars had no spring loaded 'starter' position - they had the pull start switch. You could try just squirting some wd40 into the switch and working it backwards and forwards a fwe times.
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:24 pm
by coogee
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:04 pm
by Onne
you want the top one.
And tell ESM about the mistake on their site, they will appriciate that
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:36 pm
by coogee
Update:
Heater not working:
When ignitions is off the heat works and when I turn the ignition on the heater stops.
When the heater is on the cars engine dose not stop so I have to turn off the heater to stop the engine
Can any one help?
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:51 pm
by alex_holden
ROFL!
That's a good one
I reckon the unswitched heater motor terminal is connected to a permanent live connection instead of ground. When the ignition is off the heater works but at a slower speed than it should because the current is going from the battery, through the heater motor, through the ignition circuit, to ground. When the ignition is on, the ignition switch provides an easier path for the current than the heater motor.