Morris Minor Owners Club

My lovely car is refusing to start or it will start and then cut out a junction soon after I have moved off. It seems to be when it the engine is cold. I have tried with various lengths of choke but that doesn't seem to be it. The car is making the right noises but it just won't catch. It has an alternator and electric ignition and a new battery was fitted in thea last fortnight.

It would be excellent if anyone could help.

Thanks,

Claire

Complete check and overhaul of the ignition system is the way to go. All the parts are cheap to buy - I suggest new points and condenser, new rotor arm and new distributor cap. New HT leads could be worthwhile - but I would try all the other stuff first, and of course new spark plugs. If it has electrONIC ignition - then it won't have points or condenser - but still has rotor arm/dizzy cap and spark plugs !!

In addition, have you checked the fuel pump is working properly? If the points in the fuel pump are dodgy (worn/burnt) then the car won;t start or will stop suddenly due to lack of fuel reaching the carb.

Thank you - both suggestions were spot on!

I have changed the distributor cap and the rotor arm and it worked well for two days, then the problems returned. I have also changed two of the spark plugs and again it worked well but the fuel pump I think will need replacing as it packed up too.

I have only changed two of the spark plugs as the other two are stuck fast. I will get this looked at but the spark plugs in it are NGK BP6ES - is this the right sort? The manual says 'Champion N5C 14mm' - does this make a difference - could this be why two have got stuck or are the interchangable?

The car has an electric ignition (I don't know if this is relevant) but what sort of fuel pump should a 1960 morris 1000 have? standard with points or electric - and if so negative or positive earth? How do you tell?

Thank you for the help so far - I am a total beginner so it has been a godsend!

Claire

Dear Clare,

You will ned to remove the old plugs (sometime), invest in a spark plug socket (there are 2 sizes - small & large - you need the large one). These are lined with rubber so you can avoid damage to the plugs - but you can wind out the old ones with a suitable socket drive (i.e. long enough!).

The fuel pump should be electric (see Cam's photo gallery + search this forum) - the original is "SU" or Burlen (see thier web-site). The pump has contacts unter the plastic cap which so need to be cleaned and gapped periodically.

From the Burlen site, it appears that the polarity doesn't matter to the fuel pump....(same part number for either).

Where are you (hint for your profile) - some of the locals may be able to give more direct assistance

And Merry Christmas,

Colin

The NGK plugs are the right spec., that's what I use. I doubt having two old plugs will cause the engine to cut out, more likely to be the fuel pump as you've fitted new rotor arm & dizzy cap (but NOT points yet?).

Thank you both.

I was told I might need to get the plugs drilled out - so your suggestion is quite a relief!

I will now go and order the right bits - thank you, it is such a huge help. I still have lots to learn...

I have a electric ignition - will I still need to change points?

Have a great Christmas.

Claire

Do you mean electronic ignition? All petrol cars have electric ignition.

Oh, yes - electronic!

- and if so negative or positive earth? How do you tell?

As above, I don't think it matters for the fuel pump, but you'll need to know eventually if you need to fit other modern stuff like a radio.

To check, under the bonnet, see which battery post is connected directly to the bodywork (usually by a braided cable). That is your earth. The battery posts are usually marked + and - either on the post itself, or on the plastic battery body.

It is most likely that, if your car has an alternator, and it is 1960, then it will have been converted to negative earth and the battery -ve post will be the one with the braided cable.

Alternators weren't standard then, so it will have been fitted later.

All Minors started out as positive earth, but negative earth became the norm pretty soon after the last ones were built, so if later equipment has been fitted (like the alternator) the car will most likely have been converetd to negative earth at the same time.

Funny that it was ok with new rotor and cap - for a while. Could be moisture inside the dizzy coming out and condensing inside the dizzy cap - have a look. If it's tronic ignition then usully no points -although some early sets still used points as the trigger. Although these carry only miniscule current - the heel on the dizzy shaft still wears and the gap can close up - so have a look !