Morris Minor Owners Club

My car has just had a lot of chassis work done and during this the doors were removed. One side also had a new fitch and hinge plate.

After getting the car back I have found the door fit to be poor. I'm going back to the garage on Saturday to see what can be done in terms of refitting the doors. Looking at the bodywork that all seems sound and straight, infact one door looks perfect when closed but just catches on the B post when it swings. The other door is rubbing on the kick plate so I assume needs lifting slightly.

So my question is....

how does one refit the doors and any tips to help me?

I intend to work with the garage through the morning on Saturday to get it right. No complaints in general with the garage as the work done is of good quality, and they are happy to take the car back to solve this problem.

its alot of hassle getting it right..just undo the bolts slightly change postion and tighten it up and test....and keep going at it...you might even need some shims to pack it out

I intend to work with the garage through the morning on Saturday to get it right. No complaints in general with the garage as the work done is of good quality, and they are happy to take the car back to solve this problem.

Well if you are using the Moggie specialist in Ringwood I think being there at the time and asking questions should get you a satisfactory solution to your issues and also improve your working knowledge with a bit of luck, let us know how you get on.

Doors can be a pain the the A***. Strangely enough, after fitting new sills/floors, A post, front inner wing - my first trial fit of the door was almost perfect - never happened before - and I know it won't when I take it off again.

Pete

You will save a lot of hassle when adjusting door hinges if you mark all
round their position at the start so you have a datum point. It can be a very frustrating exercise!

Well

Much pulling, pushing lifting and dropping.... and the passenger side is now pretty good, but the drivers side is terrible ;-(

Looking at the catch, it has been ground back in the past to get the door to fit and close. Looks like the forward edge is just too low, the seam by the bulk head is slightly swollen and stops us lifting the door any more, so thats going to have to be dealt with. in the mean time the best close and fit is got when the weather strip is removed..... was quite a cold drive home and i'll have to keep her in the garage out of the rain until we can sort her out.

Is it common for the weather strip to cause such a problem? there seems plenty of space without it, but when fitted it just won't close? should I think about trimming it back where its under high compression? or think about tapping/folding back the metal?

Doors seem such a pain to fit. It does not help that the drivers door is not in the best shape.

Anyone got a GOOD pair of doors for a reasonable price? I was going to repair them, but I think replacements might fit better.

im still currently adjusting the doors to get them right for the respray and i also find that the door seals (new) push the doors out..than if they wernt on...also the top catch i belive is also worrn so it doesnt hold the door enough....to replacing the doors i cant see that helping

Is it common for the weather strip to cause such a problem?

only if you are unlucky but it is not unheard of
On previous great advice from Willie, people have managed to improve this - apparently it is possible to 'adjust' the seam where the dorr rubber sits to vary the gap i any problem places.

Yes, it is common to find that the flange on to which the door seal fits
is too close to the door thus preventing easy closure. It is also common to
find that the flange is too far away from the door in places thus allowing
draughts/freezing cold air/noise/and sometimes water to enter the car.
With the seal fitted on the flange insert a piece of stiffish card between the
rubber and the door and close it. Obviously, where the card can be moved
easily there is too much of a gap and vice versa. The flange can be bent
very efficiently if you use mole grips, preferably with cloth on the jaws to
minimise damage to the paint on the flange.