Been taking the suspension apart, partly to get at the master cyclinder, partly to correct a previous lowering and partly for fun and to see how it all goes together
The offside eyebolt held two rubber bushes, one inserted from each side, and the torsion bar end pushed through.
Inside the nearside eyebolt there is a rubber layer surrounding a steel cylinder, through which the torsion bar end goes.
Which is original/right? How do I get the steel cyclinder out of the eyebolt? I can't tell if the eyebolts are different.
The 2 rubber bushes are original. The other sounds like a metalastic bush (Sherpa van was common). The metalistic bushes were fitted as a bush "upgrade" before poly bushes were available. The life of the standard bushes can be very short hence the changes.
I did not like the metalastic bushes and imported poly bushes from Australia to get rid of the standard bushes. (This was before they were available in the UK).
To remove the sleeve from the pin on the end of the torsion bar use heat or carefully cut through it.
As to what is "right", it all depends what your definition of "right" is. I always recommend and fit poly bushes to the eyebolt. If you want original parts then fit 2 rubber top hat bushes.
There should be bushes and a 'pin'. You can of course get better quality rubber bushes - and polyurethane bushes - although some think these can lead to additional cracking of the chassis leg (inspect carefully for this anyway - it's a common problem) around the eyebolt hole. Have a look at a blow-up drawing in the workshop manual - or maybe on some of the spare co's websites.
While working in this area - it's the chance to add a little bit of negative camber. Thick washer between the eyebolt and the chassis leg - I used steel plate 1/4" thick approx 2" x 3". Just make sure the nut still goes on the eyebolt full thread.
Just a word of caution re-neg camber,it would be prudent to check the settings before you adjust or modify this area. The reason being that overtime the legs may have been replaced or twisted due to welding oth of which can alter the original factory set up. So measure first then adjust as need be to no more than 1 degree negative, once you have done this you will then need to check the KPI, caster and tracking. I'd go for the poly bush route on the eyebolts too, Superflex are our prefered route.
Yes - it does make a big difference to the grip and 'turn in' - but the downside is it can tend to wear the inside edge slightly if most of your motoring is in straight lines with not too many corners - and it may lad to some 'tram line' effects on certain surfaces. Absolutely agree - check before altering - and really the main benefit is to remove the standard positive camber bringing the wheel dead upright or just slightly negative. It's worth thinking about while you are in there anyway!
My car is relatively low mileage - it had about 50k in about 1978 and has not done much since then. It has never been welded and the chassis legs are very good. No sign of any distortion apart for the bit well forward of the eyebolt where I dented it with a jack :-/
KPI is kingpin inclination, the angle at which the swivel pin angles backwards,this is taken with the wheels straight ahead, a high degree of KPI gives a good self centering property but offers a lazier feel to a low degree. Imagine a Chopper as high caster good in a straight line but awkward to steer and a Race bike with very shallow, low caster which gives very accurate quick steering.Caster we measure at 20 degrees from dead ahead and is the angle of the swivel pin when in this position. Can't remember the settings at the mo, but I'm sure someone will produce them soon
Last edited by jonathon on Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
KPI is king pin inclination (the king pin in this case is the suspension upright) - and caster is the effect which straightens up the wheels when you let go the steering wheel! (like casters on a supermarket trolley) To be honest - adding say 1/4" packer between the chassis and the eyebolt (and some sell a modified eyebolt with a little negative built-in) is not going to affect either setting to any significant degree (pun intended). The caster will be very slightly increased - which for me is a good thing! Look at any modern car when it is parked with full lock on - the outside wheel will be sitting at a very noticeable negative camber angle, yet when set straight ahead the wheels will both be vertical or very slightly negative (and certainly NOT positive!) . They can do this because modern cars all have power steering - because the downside of big caster angles is heavy steering! The upside is much better straight line tracking - better turn-in and better traction (for front wheel drive cars). If you do add any negative packing you will find you will need to reset your tracking by approximately half the amount you add in packing - but don't guess this - measure it!
From your description, it seems that KPI and caster are the same.
Having done a little googling, I would say this: looking from the front of the car caster is not visible, but KPI is. KPI is the angle that the steering axis leans inward to the centre of the vehicle. I've seen KPI used to make the steering axis coincide with the wheel track - something that cars don't seem to do but 2-front 1-rear tricycles do in order to eliminate bump-steer.
Looking from the side, KPI is not visible but caster is. Caster is the angle that the steering axis leans backwards. Used to make the weight of the vehicle help the steering to return to centre.
My personal preference would be for sharp handling.
John
Iwas interested to read your comments on metalastic bushes. I fitted some to my Minor and have done well over 100k miles since so they seem to last well. Why do you prefer either standard or poly bushes for the eye bolts?
Cheers
Jim just one thing have you checked that the other eyebolt has not got any wear in it as they can wear the hole if the bushes have been shot for a while.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
I'd go for the poly bush route on the eyebolts too, Superflex are our prefered route.
