Master Cylinder ,(removal and re-assembly)

[Arfron]

I have just started to attempt to remove the master cylinder from the MM1000.
Could someone help me with a few points:

1. how do you release the return spring on the M/c ? ( and eventually replce it )

2. what do you do next ? The 2 bolts, by depressing the torsion bar ,then
What ?

3. do I have to knock out the bar which releases the brake pedal ,or
can I remove the spring,somehow- then remove the M/C from the
plunger ?

ANY advice would be most welcome . I have cosulted the M.M
Tech. Tips
help section , but I need some more details !!! HELP !!

Arfron . Hopefully , many thanks ???

[Willie]

If you mean the spring on the foot brake pedal you do not have to
remove it all. when you have released the two bolts and undone
the two brake pipe connections the master cylinder will move
backwards and disengage from the pushrod. i take it that you know
about 'bending' the torsion bar instead of having to dismantle the
suspension?? (The return spring for the master cylinder is actually
inside it)

[Arfron]

Thanks Willie for the assistance . I wasn't sure if the push rod would pull
out of the M/C . I read up on the available info. but it all suggested
dismantling the brake and clutch mechanism and also to release the brake pedal return spring. At this point I was at a bit of a loss to see how you could get at the spring without taking the lot apart , which seemed a bit o.t.t
I assume that the push rod is eased into the M/C when it is replaced , as a reverse of the dismantling process ?

I will return to attack once more.

Yes I did know about bending the torsion bar . The info. mentioned that .Thanks for pointing it out though.

Regards Arfron

[Willie]

Yes, you just carefully feed the operating rod through the rubber
dust seal. Make sure you buy the correct size of overhaul kit.
There are two different sizes of bore......the earlier cars are LARGER
than the 1098cc ones. ( The size is found on the body of the master
cylinder).

[rayofleamington]

The dust seal is pretty important as it should keep the damp out of the master cylinder - corrosion will mean the MC is not saveable even with a seal kit.

There are 2 ways to make sure the dust seal is properly on the pushrod
1) remove the small pin from the brake pedal and take the pushrod right out and fit it to the dust seal on the MC before refitting. Connect the brake pedal to the pushrod after it's all back in, taking care not to pull the pushrod too far out.
2) fit the dust seal to the pushrod before refitting the MC. The other end of the dust seal can then be fitted to the MC when it is all back in place (fitting the MC end last is much easier)

[Arfron]

Many thanks Willie and Rayoflemington. I've managed to remove the M/C; but I used a different technique to remove the 2 bolts, which I devised , after failing with 'VERY BIG SCREWDRIVERS ' !!

I used a Number 8 ( 12 " ) G. Cramp (as in woodwork.) Placed a bit of 3x2 between the chassis rail and the outer sill. + a few blocks on the outer and inner ends to support and spread th load . Tightened the thumb screw , and ' Bob's your uncle ' , a dawdle to remove both bolts at the same time !
I will be using the same process to re-instate the M/C .

N.B It is important to get the 3x2 vertically under, and between the 2 bolts. Couln't be simpler ( also, I put some rag around the torsion bar.)


Regards and thanks Arfron