Morris Minor Owners Club

Is there any way to time my ignition without using a timing light?

Onne

Dunno - but I've found the lead for mine, if you want to borrow it

Excellent:D I still need to collect my sidevalve anyhow, I'll give you a PM

Turn the crank till the timing mark (a notch in the pulley) is in line with the required tooth on the serated guide (can't remember the increments now). Get a test light or voltmeter on the coil, when the light goes out (or valtage drops to zero) the points are open. If this happens before or after the right notch/ guide alignment then slacken the dizzy clamp and turn it the right way (rotor arm goes anti clockwise, so that way for retardation, clockwise to advance IIRC) till you hit just the right spot.

Never used a strobe on an A series (or Triumph OHV), never had a problem setting the timing either

sounds even easier than using a strobe. Thanks for the tip

That is for the static timing only and although its fine its not exactly ideal.

Kevin wrote:That is for the static timing only and although its fine its not exactly ideal.

Well there's not a lot you can do with worn dizzy springs other than replace them, so the static should be as good as any IMO

Certainly never had a problem with overheating, rough running, poor economy etc setting my cars that way (at least none of the above from timing problems ;) ) and it can even be done by watching for the spark across the points if there's no tools to hand

Yeah, it worked for me for many years. I has a couple of other advantages as well:

- You don't need to jack up the front of the car to be able to aim the timing light at the timing case marks

- You can be in denial about the unstable timing.

Just be aware that you should always turn the crant in the proper direction when you are checking the static timing, otherwise it will be off a bit.

Trev.

Has any one ever found a source of repacement bob weight springs. I tightened my last one up by heating the last turn to bright red with a micro torch and pushing it back in line then cooled the spring in oil. It took the slack out and made the timing much more stable. It's only the light spring you need to worry about.

I've always used a 12v bulb clipped in parallel with the point contacts. That way the light comes on just as the points open. Seems more positive than waiting for teh light to go out somehow.

Also, trim the setting using the micrometer adjustment on the distributor, rather than the clamp bracket. You'll be surprised how much "jiggle" there is in teh vacuum advance mechanism. This will also help show show the vacuum advance plate isn't jammed.

Wish I could type "the"...

Definatly would not win 'Just a minute' with that many the's so close together

I always used the bulb method, or alternatively a multimeter. Set static many times, and then checked with a strobe and it was always so close as not to bother adjusting.

My routine was to set the timing to the mark, and then turn the distributor back and forth until the point where the points just started to open (as opposed to just closing) as this is the point where the spark occurs.

Has any one ever found a source of repacement bob weight springs.

Should have asked at Luton Festival of Transport Roger, at the stall selling rebuilt dizzy`s and bits and pieces.

Something really odd has happened to my timing. I put my test lamp on the + terminal of the coil and the other wire on earth.

The bulb lights.

I turn the dizzy through about 45 degrees.....nothing happens.

I open the dizzy and pull the contacts apart by hand. I get the spark at the contacts. The bulb flickers/dims a tad, but does not go out????

The car runs with a lumpy spot at high revs and is about half an inch out on the timing marks when I use a strobe light strobe light on the pully.

I try and twist the dizzy using the strobe light method, but I make it worse no matter which way I turn the dizzy!

What on earth is going on?

Mof,

Positive or negative earth? Have you got the coil connected the right way round? If the light only dims slightly, it sounds like it either connected to the wrong coil terminal, or the coil is connected wrongly? What wattage bulb is in your test lamp? 10w or 21w will work better than a low wattage bulb for ignition timing.

For positive earth, the lead from the ignition switch goes to the negative or SW terminal, and the lead to the distributor goes to the positive or CB terminal.

For negative earth it can be a tad more tricky, because, as far as I know, the SW/CB marked coils were assumed for postive earth only, where SW = negative (-ve) and CB = positive (+ve). This means that for negative earth the connections should be revesed, i.e. the lead from the ignition switch goes to the positive or CB terminal, and the lead to the distributor to the negative or SW terminal.

Turn the crank clockwise ONLY to the correct mark on the timing cover. If you overshoot, turn the crank anti-clockwise past the mark and come up again in the clockwise direction. Remove the distributor cap, set the micrometer adjustment to the mid-point and turn on the ignition. Connect a test light to the coil terminal that is connected to the distributor and the other end to earth.

If it lights (points open), then turn the distributor anti-clockwise until the light goes out (points closed). The amount to turn should should be 5/10° at most - any more and it probably won't run!

When the light goes out, turn the distributor gently clockwise until the light just comes on, then lock the distributor clamp (both the clamp and the two 1/4" UNF screws holding the clamp to the block).

Now use the micrometer adjustment to get the final accurate setting by first retarding the ignition until the light goes out, and then advancing it until the light just comes on.

Thanks Richard. Lots to check for this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

Important to always turn the engine clockwise when checking - never turn it backwards - too much 'slop' creeps in to get an accurate result. In any case - timing best set by advancing until a little pinking is heard on hard acceleration - and then retard it slightly. Then it's set correctly for your engine. May not give the best idling though - in which case the advance curve is not correct. Always worth checking if the vacuum advance is working - because that pulls the timing up at idle and makes the engine more lively - and more economical.

Found another coil in a box of bits. Slapped it on and it worked fine! Original coil must have been on its way out. Still odd that the car ran at all!

Thanks for all the tips.

Hmmm - maybe ! Would be interesting now to refit the old coil, and try it connected both ways round - just to see if it now works ok. If not - throw it away (sorry - recycle it) so you are not tempted to use it in future!