Morris Minor Owners Club

This is what I think I have to do to reset the valves. Haven't done it before, so any advice would be great!

Rocker cover off
Little feeler thing - what clearance am I looking for??
To do each one, loosen locknuts, and adjust screw.
How will I tell which one to do? Something to do with rule of 9? Assuming it will be fairly obvious, but best to ask here!
Turn engine by rotating fan etc
Check gasket, maybe replace
Rocker cover on.

Is it best to do it when the engine is cold???

What really obvious thing hasnt occured to me?
Have I got it all wrong?
And is it really straightforward, or will it turn out to be a saga?

Any info/advice much appreciated!!

Thanks

B

*grin* actually thinking about it, everything turns out to be a saga!

badfelafel wrote:This is what I think I have to do to reset the valves. Haven't done it before, so any advice would be great!

Rocker cover off
Little feeler thing - what clearance am I looking for??
To do each one, loosen locknuts, and adjust screw.
How will I tell which one to do? Something to do with rule of 9? Assuming it will be fairly obvious, but best to ask here!
Turn engine by rotating fan etc
Check gasket, maybe replace
Rocker cover on.

Is it best to do it when the engine is cold???

What really obvious thing hasnt occured to me?
Have I got it all wrong?
And is it really straightforward, or will it turn out to be a saga?

Any info/advice much appreciated!!

Thanks

B

Rule of 9 - adjust 1 with 8 fully open, 2 with 7, 3 with 6 etc etc...if you know the firing order you could work out the shortest (ie/ least turning of engine) route to do all of them, but for the sake of your sanity and not missing one out just go 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8!!

0.012" (twelve thou') IIRC - slacken locknut, push down hard on the adj screw (takes up slack) & turn until slight drag on a 12 thou feeler gauge.

Cheers,

Phil.

Oh yes - 12 thou is clearance when cold.

Thanks!! Still think I'll take the cover off and panic at all the springs and rockers sat there.

Is it easy to spot which ones arent "on" - how do I know for sure I'm not fiddling about with the wrong valve?

There's one step you missed!

step 0
Remove spark plugs! makes it much easier!

It's quite obvious which valves are "down" - the spring is compressed.

Turn the engine over a few times before you start so you can see what happens.

Additional tips:-
I spread a cheap plastic sheet under the car before starting - this carches anything you drop. Really good is you work on tarmac, essential if you work over grass. It's always the smallest mose essential screw that drops & disappears

Service plan:-
1) jack up front, remove wheels, remove rocker cover, plugs, points
2) Drain engine oil, adjust tappets, adjust new spark plugs.
3) refit drain plug, fit new points and adjust, refit spark plugs, rocker cover.
4) remove oil filter, clean, fit new filter & replace (filled with oil).
5) Fill engine with oil.
6) Adjust front brakes, grease all grease points, clean up.
7) refit road wheel, remove car from stands (our drive slopes, so that the car is level with the front raised).
try to start the engine, reassemble the points correctly & there you go!

Cheers,

Colin

badfelafel wrote:Thanks!! Still think I'll take the cover off and panic at all the springs and rockers sat there.

Is it easy to spot which ones arent "on" - how do I know for sure I'm not fiddling about with the wrong valve?

While turning the engie over, if you want (say) no1. valve fully open then keep your eye on the valve nearest the rad & stop turning whn it's fully down - if you go too far you can turn the engine backwards.

Phil.

you don't need to, it wont start to shut immediately, if you keep slowly turning it will ope fully and stay open for a little while before closing so you will know when it is fully open.

What really obvious thing hasnt occured to me?

Getting a Manual.

minor_hickup wrote:you don't need to, it wont start to shut immediately, if you keep slowly turning it will ope fully and stay open for a little while before closing so you will know when it is fully open.

In theory - but - you don't want the tappet you are adjusting to come off its base circle, ie/ start opening, and as we don't know the timing/overlap best to stick to having the first valve fully open. KISS!

Phil.

Ratbag wrote:

badfelafel wrote:Thanks!! Still think I'll take the cover off and panic at all the springs and rockers sat there.

Is it easy to spot which ones arent "on" - how do I know for sure I'm not fiddling about with the wrong valve?

While turning the engie over, if you want (say) no1. valve fully open then keep your eye on the valve nearest the rad & stop turning whn it's fully down - if you go too far you can turn the engine backwards.

Phil.

I always thought of the valve nearest the rad as no 1 i.e on bore no 1. So if you want no 1 valve open , turn it till the valve nearest the bulkhead is open.
The valves equally from either end. That is when the second from the rad is open the second from the other end is ready to be adjusted.

Its a good idea to mark the spark plug leads before removing them so you know which lead is for which plug- plug no1 (which is the one nearest the radiator).

I put one ring of tape around lead 1, two for two three for three and no tape for plug lead 5.

5 cylinder Minor ? Now there's a thing!
Keep the exhaust valves at 15 thou to allow for greater valve expansion with heat - and to help ensure there is always a clearance.

why does it say in all the books to set at 12 thou

and on the manifold

Service plan:-
1) jack up front, remove wheels, remove rocker cover, plugs, points

1b - properly support vehicle with axle stands (or better) and most people like to wedge spare wheels under the car too. This reduces the likelihood of spending time with Kate*.... at work.


* Or Kate's colleagues. Kate being a pseudo-nurse (gimmie 2 months, then I'm a real nurse. Scared yet?)

why does it say in all the books to set at 12 thou

Because the engine designers designed it that way perhaps......

and on the manifold

In case you dont have a manual

so 15 thou is the bmcecosse haynes manual then

would get confusing to newcomers i guess

I simply turn the engine till number one is on compression (plus a bit to make sure both are "off cam"), then number two and so on. Never had a problem doing it that way

I'd maybe not go to 15 thou for the exhausts, but 12 inlet and 14 (so 2 thou more) for the extra expansion if you think it's that important.

ian-s wrote:

Ratbag wrote:

badfelafel wrote:Thanks!! Still think I'll take the cover off and panic at all the springs and rockers sat there.

Is it easy to spot which ones arent "on" - how do I know for sure I'm not fiddling about with the wrong valve?

While turning the engie over, if you want (say) no1. valve fully open then keep your eye on the valve nearest the rad & stop turning whn it's fully down - if you go too far you can turn the engine backwards.

Phil.

I always thought of the valve nearest the rad as no 1 i.e on bore no 1. So if you want no 1 valve open , turn it till the valve nearest the bulkhead is open.
The valves equally from either end. That is when the second from the rad is open the second from the other end is ready to be adjusted.

If you want no.1 open then open the one nearest the rad - that's what I said. Then you adjust no.8 valve (which will be closed).

Phil.