Morris Minor Owners Club

I've finally managed to get the crank out of my spare engine, what bits do I need to order for when I swap it into my current engine?

My current list is:

- Main + big end shells
- Thrust washers
- Front + rear oil seals
- Front + backplate gaskets
- Sump gasket

Anything else that I've forgotten? Do I need to replace the oil pump, or would it be OK to use the old one?

Thanks.

You are getting the new crank measured up 1st & ground also if needed, aren't you ?
There's no rear seal, unless you're fitting the aftermarket kit.

You might need new locktabs for the bearing caps too (I'm not sure if the A series motor has them).

How old is your timing chain ?
It might be worth replacing that while it's off.
Same goes for the clutch.

As for the oil pump, if you had good oil pressure before, then it will be even better with new bearings.

I haven't been following your posts at all - why are you just replacing the crankshaft ?

You would be well advised to get a new oil pump. If you change the cam to a more modern profile (ie MG Metro) then you would also use the matching oil pump for that cam - and these later pumps have greater pumping capacity. But don't go to all the cost of bearings etc unless you are SURE the crank is 'perfect'. It costs relatively little to have the crank re-ground - and the bearing cost is just the same.

The journals on the spare crank look OK to the naked eye - so I'll give it a go with some new bearings. I'm not expecting it to last forever, just as long as I can squeeze 20k miles or so out of it then I'd be happy. I'll put a new oil pump on it, just in case that helps it. Crank regrinds are about £75, and when you're as skint as I am, that's a lot!

Scott, I'm replacing the crank because the old one knocks and rattles like mad and has rather low oil pressure, but the rest of the engine is very good (160psi compression). I'll do the timing chain and clutch plus bearing - thanks for reminding me.

That £75 probably includes new bearings - up here it's about £40/50 for a regrind + the bearings of course. But if it's fine - go for it. Try to make sure the timing chain gears line up ok - there are shims on the crank nose for this - changing crank may upset the alignment. It's also rarely necessary to renew the thrust washers - except during crank grind when they usually 'touch' the side faces. So if the old thrusts are ok - just use them - I do !

OK - I won't bother with the thrust washers then. There was no end-float evident in any case.