Morris Minor Owners Club

I am thinking of taking the shell all the way back to metal, anyone used the blasting kits that are around and can give me a point in the right direction?
Think my limiting factor is I only have a small compressor

BigMark wrote:I am thinking of taking the shell all the way back to metal, anyone used the blasting kits that are around and can give me a point in the right direction?
Think my limiting factor is I only have a small compressor

First off don't even start.
(a) you need a BIG compressor
(b) it's a horrible job

I've a big compressor (needs dedicated power suply as draws too much power for normal three pin / 13 amp plug !), spot blasting gun with recirculating facillity, cheap and chearful sand blasting gun, small blasting cabinet and a big full bag of sand hopper type blaster.

Even with all those I wouldn't waste my time and energy blasting a complete bodyshell myself.
It's a sole destroying job and if you only have a small compressor then allow a massive amount of your time - probably measured in weeks of full days rather than day or hours.

Sorry to be negative but better to let you know what you are considering from the start rather then give you false hope that it's a good idea.

A spot blasting gun is useful for cleaning small difficult areas but that is probably the limit of practical use you'd have without investing a substancial amount in a larger compressor etc.
Have you though about the noise and mess for neighbours - several tons of sand being blown around isn't very nice for them and the constant thumping of a compressor can get on anyones nerves.

My advise is get quotes for having a professional do the job. £150 or so might seem a lot of money but is a fraction of what it'll cost if you need to get larger compressor and other equipment.
Make sure the blaster knows not to use high pressure as it will ruin a bodyshell.

For my car, when body ultimatley repaired, I'm considering having it full galvanized. I found a company who deal with such specialised jobs and they assure me they have done numerous full cars before without problems. Part of the process involves dipping the item to be galvanized into a vat acid which them removes rust from all hidden box sections. The galvanizing process then coats all the same hidden box sections.

Paul Humphries.

I thought of using bead blasting for my wings and doors. In the end I used paint stripper. It was no where near as bad as I thought it would be.
Two front wings and 4 doors took me a day to do and cost £30 for nitromors. I guess you could do the whole shell in a few days and with no risk of damaging the bodywork.

I totally agree with Paul. We have blasted abot 20 cars over the years, and its a truly horrid job, plus the fact that it is illegal to use sand unless you have adequate containment facilities and the correct breathing equipment. Silicosis ( think that's right) is the problem.On a full blasting you can use upto 400kg of sand.
Your real problem has only then started as you need to remove all sand from inside the box sections before it starts rusting. you will normally have about an hour before the moisture associated with blasting starts to cause surface rust. Getting all of the sand out is very difficult but essential. The least invasive way to strip paint ,rust, underseal etc is to have it acid dipped, £500 plus vat at SPL, but then you need to seal the bare metal, so its either etch, or E coat or as Paul advises Galve.
Are you sure you need to remove all of the paint, or is it just the areas of rust, as Roger's suggestion of chemical stripping is good for panel work, or as we have done in the past full top side of the shell.

THanks a lot for all your input VERY informative
I am really tossing a coin at the moment as I have the car sat ready to get started on, I know I could have it repaired and back on the road within 2 months BUT I will need to keep an eye out for more areas of rust....or I can do a full on restoration and have a "rust free" car (well as close as you can get).
Its the old choise of rolling resto and just keep it running or do a full job that will see it off the road for 6-12 months (and run the risk of never finishing)
hmmmm more food for thought, thanks