and... immobiliser - best things to cut off???
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- Minor Addict
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- Location: Scotland
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and... immobiliser - best things to cut off???
next question *grin*
whats the best thing to cut off with an immobiliser?
depending on the type i can cut off 1 or 2 things
am thinking the starter and the fuel pump
any other ideas though?
thanks as always!
whats the best thing to cut off with an immobiliser?
depending on the type i can cut off 1 or 2 things
am thinking the starter and the fuel pump
any other ideas though?
thanks as always!

Barry, Miriam, Ellie, Maia and the Morris
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- Minor Fan
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I'd go for ignition and fuel. Starter is way too easy to bypass by bump / handle / hotwire.
Try to keep the wiring discreet, otherwise it's obvious and therefore easy to bypass. Also, make sure you use decent connectors, otherwise if something falls off, you lose your engine at the most inconvenient time possible.
Try to keep the wiring discreet, otherwise it's obvious and therefore easy to bypass. Also, make sure you use decent connectors, otherwise if something falls off, you lose your engine at the most inconvenient time possible.
Hello from Audrey, Beast, Tara, Robin, and of course Mog.
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- Minor Addict
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my car has a key switch to cut the battery so that nothing works once its removed.
Its the sort of switch normally found on a boat for isolation, handles 100A so more than enough and it fits neatly out of the way under the dash. I've seen them on ebay for a few quid, even new I would expect them to be around 10 quid.
example on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Battery-Isolation ... dZViewItem
Its the sort of switch normally found on a boat for isolation, handles 100A so more than enough and it fits neatly out of the way under the dash. I've seen them on ebay for a few quid, even new I would expect them to be around 10 quid.
example on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Battery-Isolation ... dZViewItem
Rob
Cars: Lizzy 1970 Morris Minor Traveller and Noah 1969 Morris Mini Traveller
Cars: Lizzy 1970 Morris Minor Traveller and Noah 1969 Morris Mini Traveller
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- Minor Addict
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That looks like a good idea - here's one where the switch is remote from the battery: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Immobilizer-Isola ... dZViewItem 

Barry, Miriam, Ellie, Maia and the Morris
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- Minor Addict
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Yes - in the line to the fuel pump - in fact - most Minors over the years have been fitted with these - the secret is in the positioning of the switch. The good oint is - the thief gets the car started no problems - then 100 yds down the road it splutters to a halt - very obviously 'out of course' - thief doesn't want to be seen fiddling about to find out what's wrong - and runs away. Just have to hope he puts the handbrake on and doesn't leave it to run away down the hill!
Otherwise - if you are parking on the street - I suggest one of the big yellow steering wheel bar things - which hopefully discourage the thief before he even considers the car. But it has to be said - Morris Minor is hardly going to be a thief's first choice of car to steal!
Otherwise - if you are parking on the street - I suggest one of the big yellow steering wheel bar things - which hopefully discourage the thief before he even considers the car. But it has to be said - Morris Minor is hardly going to be a thief's first choice of car to steal!



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- Minor Legend
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Unless they have a sense of humour!
I use Willie's suggestion of removing the rotor arm whenever I'm parked up overnight away from home or in a 'dodgy' area. It certainly saves splicing more wiring into the loom.
That also raises another point, be careful when splicing into the loom. Don't use scotch locks. I recently had a very frustrating breakdown where the car cut out. Fuel was getting to the carb. Changed everything I could on the distributor, even the coil. I was at the road side for hours. Turns out where an old alarm had been fitted to the low tension connections on the coil scotch locks had been used then later removed. One of the wires was held together by just some of the flex and the wires must have frayed apart. I was at the roadside for more than 2 hours
I use Willie's suggestion of removing the rotor arm whenever I'm parked up overnight away from home or in a 'dodgy' area. It certainly saves splicing more wiring into the loom.
That also raises another point, be careful when splicing into the loom. Don't use scotch locks. I recently had a very frustrating breakdown where the car cut out. Fuel was getting to the carb. Changed everything I could on the distributor, even the coil. I was at the road side for hours. Turns out where an old alarm had been fitted to the low tension connections on the coil scotch locks had been used then later removed. One of the wires was held together by just some of the flex and the wires must have frayed apart. I was at the roadside for more than 2 hours

To stop towing away you need the kind of metal brace that secures the gear lever to the handbrake AND lets you lock it in gear. Then park with the handbrake on, in gear, with the front wheels pointing at the kerb. Oops, forgot you won't have a steering lock....les wrote:I've got a 1/4 inch thick steel clamp that hinges around the clutch and brake pedals to stop them being depressed. Not found a way to stop it being towed away though!
Won't stop it being craned/lifted though