Morris Minor Owners Club

Hopefully, if all goes well, I should be collecting my Tourer project on Friday.
I already know it's very rusty and don't expect many of the panels will escape replacement or attention.
It's destined to be a very long term project and I intend stripping down to just a bare bodyshell rather then trying to repair with other parts still attached.
I want to make a proper jig that will fully support the shell so I can cut and repair panels without having to worry about distortion.
Actual fabrication of such a jig isn't a problem but finding measurements for designing one is proving difficult.
I've got a Haynes manual but that isn't any help.
Does the factory manual provide any details to assist ?
Has anyone else already fabricated such a jig and want to share their results or comments and opinions ?

The idea is a fully supportive jig that can be lent to others in the future for similar, very rotten shell, restoration such as mine.

Paul Humphries.
Stoke-on-Trent.

BTW I have a proper (not cheap Machine Mart type) pipe bender with a die to match scaffolding pipe among others. If anyone wants scaffolding pipe bending to make a roll over frame they are welcome to bring it up to me and we can shape to their design.

When I built my traveller I threaded it on a scafold tube through the hole in the battery box with an angle iron cage to lift up the rear.
This way allows you to turn the car 90 degrees to do the welding while standing up and just swing the shell 90 degrees the other way to do the other side.
It also keeps the sideways stress off the rear spring hangers as not to disturb the alinement( as the axle would have sheared off if I had used the type of roolover jig that bolts to the hubs)

Best of luck

GAS...

The factory workshop manual has a good drawing/measurements. Don't tell anybody, but I'll scan it and post a link.

It's here - http://www.bigginger.com/images/mog_bod.gif Hope it's some use.

The jig I made (see sig pic) was made to do what you say, but also roll the car over.

I made it to fit the car, by measuring the car rather than anything else. I mounted the rear fixings to the front spring hangers as they are sound on my car, and the front fixings replace the torsion bar eyebolt in the chassis longit. The actual fixings are removeable to assist if I do need to work on the area they are attached to. If you want more photos, I can post them (I hope).