Morris Minor Owners Club

is it possible for a differential to slip, simialar to clutch slip

The diff is gear driven so it can't slip like a clutch.
Basically if there is slip in the axle it is usually combined with a crunch and a call for a tow truck

Are you sure it's not wheelspin?

hi ray
it is clutch slip , handbrake on in 4th gear and engine does not stall
how easy to do the clutch with the engine in the van

I've done it that way a couple of times, and not as easy as taking the engine out too, but possible with some pretty hard lifting work. Mind you, you're a pro, just like the men in the Haynes manual, so probably no bother to you. Ray'll know some tricks too, I bet

hi ging
yes i know it would be eassier engine out, but i do not have an engine hoist and only me to do the job

got to be done this weekend
de

I did Phoebe's clutch from underneath just after I got her last year, stuck her on ramps and a couple of axle stands, easier than I thought it would be. First morris clutch and only took me 3 hours

As long as your geabox floor comes out ok and your gearbox crossmember unbolts from the chassis legs, it is just as quick to do it by removing the gearbox and this can be a 1 man job.

The hard part is getting it back on!! The trick is to remove the heater tap from the back of the head. This allows the back of the engine to drop down a bit more and making it a bit easier to get the bellhousing lip past the steering rack.

Muy record for gearbox off and back on is about 4 hours, but some of this is down to luck, as if the gearbox floor screws / crossmsmber bolts / heater tap nuts etc.. refuse to come undone then it is a pig.

Somebody who had worked on Minors for a living recommended to put the rear of the car on ramps instead of the front but I've never tried that. I'cve alwayse preferred top have the front up on ramps for better access top the lower bellhousing bolts

thanks ray

i have undone the cross member bolts no problem, just to check they would come out.
the tunnel cover screws are all new so that should be ok and the heater valve is a new old stock put on last year so again should be ok.

so a days work should see it through then

any other pointers, do i need to drain the system and take the rad out at all

any other pointers, do i need to drain the system and take the rad out at all

not really - the radiator top hose will get a bit stretched but as it is convoluted it seems to cope fine.
For removing / replacing the gearbox, you want to rotate it approx 40° clockwise so that the top lip of the bellhousing is rotated round to be against the right hand bodywork instead of just blocked by the steering rack.

The only other tip is to drain the gearbox oil before removing the propshaft!

Whilst the box is out and clutch is off, it is always a good idea to replace the crank spigot bush. If the old one is worn this will put loads more stress on the gearbox input shaft bearing giving it a much shorter life.

thanks ray
i can lift a gearbox no problem over my head !!!!!

what is the spigot bush bearing please and how far do i need to drop the engine

aupickup wrote:hi ging
yes i know it would be eassier engine out, but i do not have an engine hoist and only me to do the job

got to be done this weekend
de

For the future, I've got a hoist that you're more than welcome to borrow. OK, it's a way away, but I can only offer...

thanks andrew, i may take you up on that when the 1275 comes out
thanks

Done!

what is the spigot bush bearing please and how far do i need to drop the engine

basiacally drop the engine until the heater outlet would have been squashed into the battery box. I don't think it goes much further than that anyway.

Crank Spigot bush - The gearbox input shaft sits inside a hole in the back end of the crank. To keep the gearbox shaft concentric there should be a bush in this hole, which will wear out over time.

It can be a pain to remove the old bush but most widely praised method i've heard of (although never had to use this) is to fill the hole with grease and push a close fitting shaft into the bush and squash up the grease. Then hammer the shaft and the pressure in the grease should push the bush out.

I've a hoist which might be a bit closer to you than Bristol - near Reading - if you need to borrow one. It's not very posh (screw rather than hydraulic) but it does the job.

also. you might need the clutch alingment tool, it can be difficult if the clutch is not alligned, espically when fitting the gearbox from underneath.
i always avoid removing the gearbox. too difficult and to dangerous.
with no engine lift, i always remove the front, and get a trolly jack to support the engine, and a friend to help lift it out. its possible to change the clutch without putting it on the ground, by pulling it forward, taking care not to damage the front brake pipe.
when putting the box back from underneath, watch out for bending the thrust washer levers on the pressure plate.

thanks
i do have a clutch alignment tool
here hoping

An M12 tapered tap screwed into the flywheel will automatically extract the pilot bush,

what is the spigot bush bearing please and how far do i need to drop the engine

Here you go Dennis
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/adv ... f951217c31
If it wont come out the way Ray suggested you can cut a small grove on the inside of it until you can collapse the bush, and as skilled person I dont need to tell you to be careful.

thanks guys i am doing the clutch tommorrow, one last question.
do i need to take out the gearbox tunnel cover
also are there any torque figures