Morris Minor Owners Club

So as we are now fast approaching the welding I did a bit of research to see just how much rust removal would be.

SPL, a company based in the midlands, have developed a really neat looking technology which will remove all underseal, road muck, oil and paint from your car's shell.

Apparently it's less invasive than sandblasting and much less mucky!

Has anyone on here acutally had their car done like this? I'm nearly 100% convinced that we'll do this with Hebe's shell, but thought I'd get other people's thoughts too.

Cheers

NIkki

Hello Nikki,

do you have any details of what sort of process it is?

Alec

here comes the Dutch bloke, what would it cost?

Hi Folksies,

The web address for them is www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk Apprarently they're the same company who electroplate and prepare the shells for the London Taxi cab company.

I have some photos they've sent me and it's all pretty impressive. As well as rust removal they offer either primer preparation, oil coat (the one we're going for as we'll have the shell back to cut out and replace panals before getting the shell sent back to be electro plated) and electro-coating. It looks a rather complex procedure, but they quoted me £650 ex VAT to strip the shell and coat in a semi-protective oil coat.

Nikki

Ohh Imagine a bodyshell to weld with no rust or underseal to burn through....

Nikki, we have now had two cars put through the SPL. They basically acid dip your car until all rust sealer etc is removed. They then passivate the steel in a water/oil wash. If you go this route then only opt for the E coat protection as all box sections are cleaned on the inside as well so you will not be able to spray into them to re seal the steel work. The E coat is a modern motor industry process and it covers electrostatically all steel surfaces, even inside box sections. I can e-mail you pics of a traveller we have had done if you require them. The cost of the acid dip and E coat is around £1,500 plus vat, a lot of money but even greater peace of mind.
You should decide whether to dip the car first to find out rust areas or do major repairs then have it dipped with all welding done. If you opt for an initial dip to find the extent of corrosion then you will need to re dip when finished with welding, then have it E coated.

paulk wrote:Ohh Imagine a bodyshell to weld with no rust or underseal to burn through....

just imagine a car with no rust and no welding to be done

Thats why I'm working on a time machine Dennis ;) Go back to 1950 and buy a brand new tourer and lock it in a sealed building with 50 years rent paid up in advance

wish i had known then what i know know

Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing

well it is
but then i could only afford £50.00 to get my first minor van !!!!!!!

Lee,
I have that tourer but mine's a 1949! No rust, never welded but the rest of it hasn't aged so well!

Hi guys and gals,

Yup - looks like we'll go for a double-dip. There's no point forking out money for a ground up restoration (and I'm talking my time as well as parts here) to have her rust away quickly. Dip to find the rust, then fix her up welding wise, then redip and E plate I think

Cheers!

Nikki

my van is still on its original body panels and never been welded although it does need a new rear outer valence an a tidy up on the outside.
devolped a clutch diff problem.

how easy to do the clutch

Easy - and pretty quick too, if you've got an engine hoist. I've found it harder work with the engine left in.