Trunnions
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:47 pm
Doing trunnions for first time - lower trunnion unscrews freely then tightens until stuck - have I missed something or is the thread bunged up 
MollyMalone
MollyMaloneMorris Minor Owners Club
Promoting the Preservation and Use of the Postwar Morris Minor
https://board.mmoc.org.uk/
Trunnions
Page 1 of 1
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:02 pm
Have you removed the pin that passes through the trunnion?
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:03 pm
Maybe, I did a lower a few weeks ago, the thread was really tight and it took a bit of effort to wind it right up before winding back a bit to allow for steering movement.
Have you cleaned it out? Mine came with a load of swarf in it. If that still doesn't work how about a screw driver where the fulcrum pin should go to get some torque on it? Obviously with plenty of grease in the trunnion and on the swivel pin. Or if you've already put the fulcrum pin in with the grease seals and the grease nipple it could be trapped air.
Have you cleaned it out? Mine came with a load of swarf in it. If that still doesn't work how about a screw driver where the fulcrum pin should go to get some torque on it? Obviously with plenty of grease in the trunnion and on the swivel pin. Or if you've already put the fulcrum pin in with the grease seals and the grease nipple it could be trapped air.
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:21 pm
I am under the impression that he is trying to REMOVE the trunnion
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:32 pm
As above - make sure the cross pin is removed - pour some oil on the threads - and work it back and forth. Note that one side (nearside I think !!) is supposed to be LH thread. So you may be winding it up when you think you are winding it down. The threads may be worn where it normally rotates - now you are running it down on to relatively unworn threads. Changing the trunnion only takes up half the wear - this may keep it going for a while - but really - new leg and trunnions is the best long term fix.
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:32 pm
If he or she (assuming she with molly in the name) is removing them then the same applies in reverse, remove the fulcrum pin and use a screwdriver. I didn't think the post was reffering to removing the trunnion as the post mentions the trunnion unscrews fine.
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:36 pm
Until it sticks!
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:58 pm
Sorry but have to agree with Les and Bmclower trunnion unscrews freely then tightens until stuck
And if the threads are that worn as suggested a new leg may be required.
Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:54 pm
Oh i see!
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 10:43 pm
Well Gentlemen/Ladies - you have been busy since my last visit! I have followed the instructions laid down by Rob Thomasson re "Trunnions". Line 16 of the instructions states "Lift off the entire king pin assembly" I have misinterpreted this. Having read your comments I now realise that this means "Drive out the offending pin". This pin is still in place and is obviously obstructing removal of the trunnion. My thanks for your help but don't go away - I still have my sticking clutch problem to solve! Regards
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:24 pm
The pin should slide out quite freely - no 'driving' necessary!
Posted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:18 am
Aha that exlains it ;-) I'm glad you double checked with the experts before giving up!I have followed the instructions laid down by Rob Thomasson re "Trunnions".
No offence to Rob - only kidding ;-) He's put a lot of useful stuff together, however to explain car repair procedures in 'words' is not always an easy task!
On a poorly maintained car (e.g. one with dodgy trunnions) it is well known for the pins to be hard to get out. I've needed to use the 'medium' hammer on some when the regular hammer was too small (fortunately it didn't call for the BIG hammerThe pin should slide out quite freely - no 'driving' necessary!
)Posted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 1:23 pm
Usually worn - and so far too small for the worn 'big' bearings.