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master cylinder replacement
Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 3:22 pm
by cliff
i'm about to change the bmc and have noticed from other threads that the best way forward is to grind off the original bolts as they are behind the torsion bar, so far so good.
looking at my manual they suggest removing the gearbox housing cover complete, is this really necessary as the bmc is inside the chassis leg not outside?
they also suggest removing the speedo cable from the gearbox casing, is this necessary also?
also what size spanners will i need for the brake unions?
Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 4:03 pm
by bigginger
Grind them off? I don't remember ever seeing that. You'd need to be very careful not to damage the torsion bar. You don't need to remove the cover, but it makes it easier to put the bolts back. I can't imagine why you would have anything to do with the speedo drive, and (in the expectation of being told it's a Whitworth size really) 7/16 AF
Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:21 pm
by rayofleamington
It's actually fairly easy to replace without using a grinder! (needs a block of wood and a long bar)
Reversing the bolts is common but can lead to torsion bar failure!!! I've seen many cars where putting them the wrong way round has worn deep grooves into the torsion bar

This happened on my own car many years ago when I didn't know better and therefore I've been mindfull to look at other cars and seen this too many times

The bolts are the correct way round for a good reason,
safety!
For tips - see this one in 'useful tips':
http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... 439#107439
Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 9:56 pm
by cliff
thanks ray, i've read the article and will follow the instructions, all seems fairly straight forward

Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 10:19 pm
by Onne
speedo cable maybe on LHD cars?
Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 10:32 pm
by cliff
it's an old haynes manual (blue cover) i've quoted from, they're usually pretty good.
Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 10:37 pm
by bigginger
Aha - you don't know the "book of lies" like some of us do

Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:26 pm
by cliff
job done ... eventually.
first i couldn't find the 7/16 spanner so had to resort to a small adjustable, trouble is they never stay adjusted.
then i disconnected the brake pipe at the back union and slid a piece of tubing leading to a tub to catch the fluid as i pumped it out ... only problem was i connected the tubing to the wrong part of the pipe and proceeded to pump brake fluid all over the drive!
and to top it off i rested my head on the canister of wd40 and filled my ear.
apart from all that the job went reasonably well, the brakes now work.
Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:38 pm
by bigginger
Congratulations

I had a look at my Haynes after you mentioned it - what a performance! They must have been used to being paid by the hour. "Remove the driver's seat", "remove the speedo drive" , "remove the clutch pedal" - Why? I just want to replace the master cylinder

Posted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 12:22 am
by NZJLY
cliff wrote: i rested my head on the canister of wd40 and filled my ear.
Well it is recommended for getting that hard to shift dirt

Dare we ask what the phrases were that you used at that moment
We all do things like that

like the time I was disconnecting a fuel line and sprayed petrol into my eyes

It isn't easy to find your way out of a cluttered shed when you can't see.
Glad to hear she is all go (or stop

)