Im in a bit of trouble. My Traveller 1098 cc from 69 is blowing the 35 amp fuse (the fuse for the instruments) all the time, so my flashing lights and fuel measúre instrument is not working. If i change the fuse, it works for a couple of minuts, then the fuse blows again. I have tried to to change the regulator with an another but that didnt give any difference.
The car just did this suddenly the other day. I cant seem to find any bad connections anywhere. What is wrong ?
cheers
Carsten
The fuse you describe is the one with Green wires feeding off it. The first thing to check is if it blows when you turn a particular item on which would obviously point to that item being faulty. If it blows without you switching anything on(or operating the stop lights) then you will have to disconnect
the Green wire from each item in turn and see if that stops the fault. i.e. remove the Green wire from the windscreen wiper motor,tape it up,and see
what transpires!.
The first thing to check is if it blows when you turn a particular item on which would obviously point to that item being faulty.
Or the wiring which is unique to that item. One evening I kept blowing a 35amp fuse - turned out to be a broken wire leading to the brake lights. At the point it had broken it was up against the inner wing. The fuse was fine while the car was stationary. So I would operate every switch and instrument with no result - then it would blow the next time that I braked!
instead of blowing lots of fuses in a trial and error sort of way why not connect an ammeter acoss the two terminals of the fuse holder, and then pull of the wires one at a time like Willie suggested. When the faulty wire is removed the current should drop.
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
please do not use an ammeter, if it is a dead short in a circuit it will do the meter no good at all. As most multimeters only have a 10 amp maximum range anyway, in this case, the short circuit current is way above that.
A simple way is to buy a circuit breaker and keep that to use as a temporary fuse replacement, whilst doing these sort of tests.
good idea alec, i had never thought of using a circuit breaker...
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
An alternative is to use the resistance range of the meter with the fuse out completely. Connect one end to the dead side of the fuse, the other to ground. Almost zero resistance would blow the fuse, where a few ohms would be the normal load.
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