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Cleaning rusty parts
Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 6:51 pm
by picky


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I have been trying out electrolysis to derust steel parts, this was my first attempt. I read about it on a kit car forum, but I thought some people here might be interested, as I think it has worked quite well. The pictures are of the same washer, before and after 1 hour in a home made electrolysis tank. What do people think?
Tim
Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 7:15 pm
by Packedup
Was that done
like this by any chance?
I've seen it mentioned before, and always wondered just how quick/ good it was for smaller bits (cause the chances of me making a tank big enough for a shell are limited!).
Looks like it's worth a try at some point

Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 8:04 pm
by minor_hickup
I've never heard of this for cleaning parts. I usually use a wire brush, which can be fiddle with small parts.
Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 8:09 pm
by picky
yup, similar to the article Packedup mentioned. its definately worth a try!! doing a whole shell may be difficult, but its really good for small parts. Ill post some hints and tips once ive done a few other bits and pieces.
Tim
Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 9:44 pm
by Shawn
I've used electrolysis on old tools and it worked really well. It did leave a black powdery residue (which wiped off) but might be hard to remove in tight spots.
Apparantly molasses works well too - leave the part in overnight and rinse well in the morning.
Posted: Tue May 30, 2006 7:31 am
by bmcecosse
Just use phosphoric acid (Jenolite/Kurust etc). The process above may 'clean' the part - but does nothing to stop it rusting again !
Posted: Tue May 30, 2006 12:38 pm
by ian-s
There are specialists who will clean a whole shell by this method as well as parts.. There was one at the Racing car show in february. Surface Processing on 01384 242010
Posted: Wed May 31, 2006 9:32 am
by newagetraveller
Changing your car from positive earth to negative earth reduces chassis rust by the same principle.
Posted: Wed May 31, 2006 9:40 am
by RogerRust
On a related subject. Contact breaker points used to be of equal size, but they now all have a smaller contact on the cam. I noticed when I changed to -ve earth that the pitting reversed and the larger contact has now started to pit. I suspect the 'new' points are better suited to -ve earth applications.