Page 1 of 1
engine plate number
Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 9:19 pm
by lucamarzana
Hi,
I have to replace the engine plate number, the one on the engine. Looks like if it is kept in place with two nails (?).
So, before removing the old and damaged one I would like to know how I might procede and where to obtain two new "nails" to put the new one in place.
Thanks,
Luca
Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 9:32 pm
by Onne
Maybe you can try a place where they rebuild engines?
Nails
Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 12:48 pm
by Willie
Luca, they are not 'nails' they are studs which have groves cut vertically in
them so that they twist as they are knocked in. If you use a very thin blade
(old chisel) under the head you can usually start them off and extract them.
I have never seen replacements for sale. Any engine reconditioner merely
shaves them straight off during the overhaul and never replaces them!
Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 1:05 pm
by bmcecosse
Why replace the engine number ? Willie ^^^^ has had more success than me - I have never managed to remove these in one piece.
Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 10:07 pm
by moggyminor16
if you put a slit in the top of the studs then you can unscrew them or moll grips
Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 11:03 pm
by bmcecosse
No - they are as Willie says - like grooved nails - they don't unscrew.
Posted: Sat May 13, 2006 10:09 am
by moggyminor16
well that is how i have got them out
Posted: Sat May 13, 2006 3:32 pm
by bmcecosse
Obviously not originals !
'studs'
Posted: Sat May 13, 2006 7:18 pm
by Willie
a good idea. I should explain that the vertical grooves are in a slight spiral
pattern so an unscrewing motion will work.
Posted: Sat May 13, 2006 7:39 pm
by RobThomas
Super hardened steel pins (I've forgotten the name) CAN be removed by slotting the top with a dremel (Hacksaw won't do) and then smack the top with a hammer to release the rust. Screwdriver and maybe some dry ice touched on it if you can get any. CO2 extinguisher emptied into a rag will make some for you. I've got a few here and will try to find the part number/manufacturer.
Alloy rivet and a blob of solder would be best for replacing the plate. Chiselling the heads off the steel driv-bolts usually gouges the alloy plate. Getting new plates made is not cheap.
Last driv-bolts I got were from Barlow Fastenings in Poole area, 1990s.
studs
Posted: Sat May 13, 2006 9:16 pm
by Willie
I didn't chisel the heads off I just raised the heads slightly with a chisel and
then removed them quite easily with pliers.
Posted: Sun May 14, 2006 7:16 pm
by wanderinstar
But as BMC said earlier. Why remove it in the first place??
Ian.
Posted: Sun May 14, 2006 7:25 pm
by bmcecosse
Maybe he's getting the block machined to level the pistons with the top.