Morris Minor Owners Club

The old girl is giving a bit of a deeper brrrr and raaaassssp sound than normal. When I had her in for the cylinder head change they pointed out that the exhaust was "blowing a bit " but that they had repaired it for now. I rather seem to think that it has gone altogether.

How easy and cheap to replace this please - and are there any variations on exhaust type?

Cheers in advance for the usual splendid info.

Graham.

Standard exhausts are pretty cheap, but why not get a stainless steel one? ESM & Bull Motif do both types.

Getting it off and on can be fun! Especially getting it over the axle if you get a one piece system. It can be done but easier with a 2 piece system. Also, get new mountings and a new heavy duty manifold clamp and make sure that the manifold & exhaust mounting flanges are clean and straight otherwise it will start blowing.

ive just got the 2 piece from bull motif , £58 inc; p+p i think.easy to fit ,steve

I've just replaced a one piece, it really isn't that bad, but you'll probably need new exhaust clamps. I believe the stainless is about £60, which is 3 mild steel ones which lasted 15 years on my car, so it'll only pay off after 45 years! Whatever you do I recomend hermetite exhaust paste when connecting it to the exhaust manifold!

I got a B-M stainless one 6 years ago - it's till going strong, I had imagined it would last 'for ever' - but some of the internal baffles have come loose inside the silencer and it's a bit tiresome !

I've just replaced a one piece, it really isn't that bad, but you'll probably need new exhaust clamps.

Some cars it is easy and some cars it is a complete pig. Also the exhaust shape makes a huge difference - they seem to vary by atleast 2" !!!

Remove front nearside wheel and use brute force. If that doesn't work then lift rear nearside in the air (jacking under bodywork) to give more clearance between axle and body. This extra clearance allows the exhaust to go back and extra half inch or so and can make all the difference.
If that fails, diconnect the leaf spring on that side and jack the body away from the xale so you can get the exhaust a lot further back (fortunately I've only had to do that once out of about 8 exhaust changes)

good luck - I hope you've got an easy one.

If you go for the 2 piece make sure it is correctly aligned - on my traveller the nearside wheel contacted the exhaust on full lock . After splitting the centre joint (3 hours ) it took 10 minutes to align it and reclamp

Aye, I got my LCB front from one company and the back section from (Onne) - and they don't actually fit together. There's about an inch gap filled in with mild steel to get the front and rear ends in the right place.

The front doesn't actually fit the exhaust manifold very well either. If I knew who'd made it I'd tell you, but I got it off here for free, iirc, so I can't complain

Had the old girl in to Twit-Fit today (really only I could get a look at the situation when she was on the ramp ).

Looking at it, everything appears reasonably sound, except that where the exhaust pipe goesinto the manifold, there is a lot of paste underneath the clamp, and there are some chunks of paste missing. When I asked it it was repairable I was told "dunno mate, suggest you take it to a specialist ).

Can there be a simpler exhaust to fit than a Moggy's? You definitely can't get better than a twit-fit titter.... lol: lol: lol: lol: lol: lol: lol: lol:

easy on a van, we take the floor out and step inside

My exhaust kept blowing at that manifold joint, in the end when I came to replace it the new 'replacement' exhaust had a much bugger 'cup' to it.
This fitted the flange easy peasy and with a little bit of 'Fire Putty' has never leaked since.
For info I bought a mild steel one from Partco (Brown Bros). It cost me around £30, a bit more expensive than ESM/MGM but what you save in cost with these online shops you pay in postage.

The taper joint nees to be clean - and undamaged. And a new - or good-as-new clamp helps. Smear of exhaust paste - push the two together and hold them there with a jack under the front pipe. Then another smear of paste on the faces of the clamp - fit and tighten - not too much.

As a bonus you can use the paste to fix the woodburner's flu!