Morris Minor Owners Club

agood replacement for the packers betwen thechassis and floor is builders dampproof course, the bituman type

the new barral may not fit an old stock or original handle

Regarding the packers, they are fitted between the cargo floor and the chassis at the uppermost curve of the latter. Size being approx -- 1 3/4'' x 7'' x 1/4'' thick. They were originally of a leather nature, so some belt material would be ideal.
As far as the floor strengthening strips are concerned, as you say, they need plug welding in place. The position of the seat strips will be determined by the appropriate holes in the floor pan, the others you will possibly need to compare with another if you have lost the original position.

Steve if you check out pages 5 to 7 in my pickup restoration part two, on page two of the restoration thread, theres some photographs of the underside of the cab floor and the seat anchor points going on. Les and Dennis, how do I get the door handle out of the door, there are three screws at the end of the door that loosen the handle and lock, but I can't get it out of the door, does it come out the internal side of the door?[frame][/frame]

mind you these are the old door handles.[frame][/frame]

David - the entire upper window frame has to come out first. It's held on by the bolt you can see in the photo and some on the inner skin of the door . Track the front and rear vertical sides of the frame down onto the door skin and you'll be able to work out which bolts. the door top is also held on by two bolts under the quarter light. Also disconnect the latch mechanism (remove split pin from handle).

It's not an easy job and its a time consuming one but it's the only way I'm afraid

David
As brucek says " not an easy job " but within your capabilities.
Just think Christmas cracker bent wire Chinese puzzle !
Great care in the final bit, wriggling it out.The loose escutcheon is just lipped in, on one edge and often becomes the "casualty ".
It's not terribly robust and as frustration levels rise, so does the use of brute force.
Patience is the name of the game.
I have a pal who's mantra is brute force when dismantling things on his classic.Funny thing is ,he's always surprised when things break.
Bob

Thanks Guys, I did a practice run and the original estuchion came out easily enough, just got to get enough spare time now to dismantle as per your instructions, and, trouble come not as single spies but in Battalions, I've scraped Alice against a concrete fence post, I'm more worried about my lack of reversing and parking skills than how to repair this though, before I began this project I would have been beside myself with grief at this little scratch.[frame][/frame]

Oouch !!
Is it just surface paint or more a small double groove ding ? Difficult to tell from a picture, when you can't close you eyes and feel the damage.
On the plus side, you won't have to try matching 40 year old paint.I'm dusting down my body hammers and dollies, as we speak !
I sent you a PM.
Bob

I did The same thing! a little bit of filler and a rattle can and all was well!

Don't worry, a pickup should have several battle scars, chicks dig them you know

You're right Marky, adds character, the damage is only paint deep Bob, Daisy may Foz, I still have a half tin of the original paint I sprayed her with. so I'm going to fix all the paint faults in one go, she's my daily drive, just love to drive her whenever I can, so she takes me to work every day now, There's a private carpark at work and she's drawing attention and friendly comments. The poor bikes gathering cobwebs, still, come the rain and the bike and the yachting trousers will go back into action.

With such warm weather upon us my pickup Alice has been put to daily use, she has been a very useful member of the household. But in payment I'm compiling a final list of things remaining to be completed. They start with the Choke cable, it's ineffectual as it is, so some adjustment is needed there.[frame][/frame]

It may need renewing or adjustment.I'll have to look deeper into this, she's coped well without the use of a Choke so far, but then again Ive not had the freezing cold starts yet.
[frame][/frame]

my list continues with bodywork, paint faults, scratches, runs, rub marks. The bottom of the drivers door is rough with a capital R[frame][/frame]

Then there are the window rubber seals, the paint covered originals need replacing with nice black rubber seals, there are those that need renewing and those that haven't been fitted yet, like the glass to door bottom seals. This can all be done together when I renew the door locks.[frame][/frame]

the cab ceiling needs a cloth header cover and the interior light is an empty hole right now.[frame][/frame]

The cab is of course the area requiring the most work still, glove compartments will improve the look of the interior concealing all that wire, carpeting the floor over the sound deadening and adding the final kidney trim will do wonders for the overall look.In time I could turn my attention to adding a heater unit, I have two, so I should be able to make one decent unit out of them.
[frame][/frame]

then in there somewhere are plain hubcaps. Overall, with patients, I should be able to slowly improve Alice to a favourable condition, she's working really well now, she runs beautifully, does everything I ask of her, so I can spend money and effort over a long period on these final jobs, This makes her economic to own, run and improve, How many modern cars on the road can have that said about them when they become 44 years old.[frame][/frame]

inspirational work! Thanks... you have helped a lot for a total beginner like me Brillaint job!!