Morris Minor Owners Club

Thanks Matt, I'm going to try re-newing the speedo cable, as I'm using the original relic one, so that might be the reason, ESM do a new one for about £6 so its the place to start

what're the symptms? if the needle's jumpy/sticky, try dismantling the clock and cleening between the inducer and actuator plates with something like petrol. grease can work its way in there from the cable. for gods sake don't drop the cleaning fluid on the bezel, though -- it'll take it back to brass :/ -- caused me to have to get a replacement :/

th wiring loom orignally was close to the clutch linkage

Ive just got back from ESM with a box of goodies, I brought a sound deadening kit with a can of spray glue, a petrol pipe cover, a new speedo cable, Number plate light lens, master cylinder cover plate, a set of door locks n keys.
The speedo cable fitted up easily and solved my speedo problem right away.
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the petrol pipe cover wasn't so straight forward to fit, it needed some modification before I could line up the bolt holes.[frame][/frame]

after some argy bargy I finally got it to line up and fit, so after that I took it off again and coated it in primer and a nice coat of gloss black from a can, Once that was dried it bolted back in.[frame][/frame]

the lens is just a flat piece of clear perspex with two holes for the screws, unfortunatly the screw holes were over large and in the wrong place, so I had to re drill one and add a nut glued with araldite to the other hole. The screw went in ok to the new small hole I'd drilled, the nut will be bolted up later on when the glue has hardened. On the whole a good day, I'm chuffed to bits (as the American President would say) that the the speedo is working. Ive got the sound deadening to do tomorrow.[frame][/frame]

Could you tell me what tyres you have on the pick up,and how do they handle?

te rear perspex for the light should be screwed to a retaing clip in the rear valence

Didn't fit----I don't believe you!

all parts fit lol

Rasputin I'm not sure what the exact measurements of the tyres are, they're on the pickup wide rims, the rear tyres are slightly wider than the front tyres by just a smidge, there's more clearance for rear wheels as they don't have to steer. Whatever they are they perform well and make the pickup more stable.[frame][/frame]

Les and Dennis, as you say, anything can be made to fit, eventually. Today the fitting of sound insulation is the name of the game, layed out like this I can clearly see the curved piece at the top, mid upper and the bit at the bottom that covers the floor at the pedals. The mid upper piece will have to be cut around the back of the battery box.[frame][/frame]

the best way I found of cutting it to shape is to use a paper template, taped in place its easy to crease and mark, then I layed the cut out pattern on the sound deadening panel and simply cut to shape, hold in position to double check for any final trimming and then its dead easy to glue-spray and offer it up into position.[frame][/frame]

Looks good David,

You shoud also try and find the large blanking plug that fits at the back of the battery compartment as this will also seal off excess noise and fumes from the engine bay. Worth looking on a scrap car or check out - Battery Rubber Bung (For Bulkhead) MM & Series II - [BAT107] @ £7.25 from ESM. Although it says Series 2/MM it will also fit the later models.

Thanks Bruce I'll order one of those. Today was a big step in the right direction, I had incorrectly placed two wooden slats between the cab floor and the chassis, I have often tried to get them out but to no avail, Today I unbolted the body from the chassis to take the pressure off the slats. I also had to undo the petrol pipe to allow some movement. I then gently jacked up the cab a few millimeters.
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after a real struggle I managed to get them out by screwing in wood screws to get a better purchase with pliers. They didn't want to come free, but when they did the floor popped down to its proper position.[frame][/frame]

Now I can properly bolt up the gearbox cover to the chassis triangles, bolt down the master cylinder cover and fit the final piece of bulkhead sound deadening material.[frame][/frame]

then I can think about dismantling the door handle assembly to renew this lock barrel. The helpful guy on the front desk at ESM explained to me how to do this, there are three pins to knock out to get it apart.[frame][/frame]

Hi David,
Been following this restro for ages, well done it's all looking fantastic!
My van is miles behind at the moment. Can I ask you about the ply packings you fitted then removed. Why did you have to remove them? How thick where they and where did they fit.
What have you replaced them with if you have? I am told that origonally it would have had a fibre type packing and I wa going to use a conveyor belting type stuff if I can find some or even sidewalls off an ol tyre, but since I didn't strip the van I have no way of knowing what size, thickness or where they would go.
Also I need to plug weld the floor strengthners on to underside of cab floor and the seat saddle captive nut plates. Any help on this front would be appreciated.
Thanks

Steve