Morris Minor Owners Club

I would consider getting a new stud for the water pump. A stud should "bottom" in it's threads so it won't come loose. Like if they come out with the nuts on them they should be dissmantled and put back seperatley as when new.

Thanks Bob, getting there steadily. Chris from pommreg wanted to know what weights are shown on my chassis plate, here's the plate.[frame][/frame]

here's another view, taken by torch light at an oblique angle.[frame][/frame]

I'm loath to take the pickup out in the drizzley weather until I've got a protective covering of polish over the whole body, getting there slowly, bit by bit. Then I can think about getting her up on axle stands for another coating of black on her underside.[frame][/frame]

This is the East Sussex village of Burwash, along the road a way from Heathfield, just short by a few Miles of Ticehurst and ESM. It's the furthest trip so far that I've done in the pickup.[frame][/frame]

when I was taking this picture a gentleman stopped for a chat and mentioned that he used to drive a Morris Minor Pickup when he was a young man.[frame][/frame]

I arrived too late to use the counter service at ESM, They shut at 1200hrs and I was an hour late, must get my early Morning Morris Minor head on. Here she is among the others in the ESM carpark. I asked permission if it was ok the take images of the cars there, they said it was fine as it was for this site. I won't post the large amount of pictures I took on here, don't want to derail my own restoration thread, I'll open a new post in the General chat area, haven't posted there since they started this restoration area.[frame][/frame]

Alice performed better than I expected, the coolant leak now fixed, she was cool enough to touch, the radiator, cylinder head, rear diff. were all warm to the touch, only hand hot. So I know that water system is working well.[frame][/frame]

On the return journey she performed just as well, but oh dear, during my last parade service I noted that although the radiator level hadn't changed, the oil was well below normal. Looks like I have an oil leak to check out.This was taken after I had wiped the dip stick clean with a cloth and re dipped, this is how it looked. Taken shortly after engine shut down.
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Now then I wonder, can anyone help out here, the dipstick showed empty right after engine shut down, but now, several hours later on a cold check, the dipstick shows max, is this due to circulating oil returning to the sump? I did dump the last of the oil can down the filler neck, that only amounted to a pint at the most. This makes me feel a whole lot better, I had horror thoughts of an oil-less engine operating at top speed causing massive engine wear. It would appear that it's not that bad. Comments?[frame][/frame]

Dave,
This was a dipstick fault and there was a recall in 1972 and all affected vehicles were issued with a longer dipstick!
Seriously though, My Traveller appears low for quite a while afrer a run but eventually is at normal level. I think there is quite a lot of leeway from low on the stick to engine damaging lack of lubricant! Roy could advise at this juncture!!

David
Oil situation normal.Yes, allow time for the ciculating oil to return to the sump, by gravity ,before taking a reading.
Five or ten minutes after switch off, should be OK.
I do my fluid levels checks with the engine / water cold, before getting the car out of the garage.
Bob

Thank you Bob, always a source of reassurance and advice. I made this mechanics creeper when I took note if how much they cost in the machine mart catalogue. I might add a tool tray with a section of board and a cut down icecream tub. You might wonder why the axle support is mounted above rather than in the more supportive location of underneath, It's all about saving height, don't want to crack my nose on the sump as I fly underneath. These B&Q casters have been worth the fiver each I payed for them. First they were on the Dolly for the cab, then the Smaller engine dolly, now they're on here.[frame][/frame]

Back up on axle stands, wheels off, the underside needs washing prior to a fresh new coat of hardwearing black paint., there are plenty of jobs to be completed under here, she's going to be up on stands for quite a while.[frame][/frame]

there is a fault that I have heard that I am very keen to get fixed, it's a rythmic soft thumping sound coming from one of the wheels that speeded up and slowed down with the speed of the car , I suspected it was the front drivers side and Ive just confirmed its the brake drum catching.[frame][/frame]

that and the washing and painting,, then there are some more bolts to go in under the cab floor at the gearbox cover, a speedo cable to renew, choke to fix, copper grease handbrake cable, clevis pins split pins, the bushes for the top of the rear shocks want looking into...[frame][/frame]

Hi David,
I have a 1966 traveller and have concerns on the location of my wiring near the pedal pivots.
I have been reviewing your restoration thread and your wiring also seems to be very close to the pedals (See your pictures on Page 51 Nov 01 2:29pm and page 57 29 Jan 10:27am) and it could be possibly to damaged the wiring harness by the movement of the pedals.
I also have a concern on the routing of the brake pipe in this area.
Have you moved this wiring/do you know the correct route for the wiring harness from the engine bay to under the car passing the pedal area.
Any information you have on the correct routing/fixing of the wiring harness/brake pipe pasted the pedal area would be appreciated

Andy

Andy I'm as un-informed about the original location/route of the loom and Brake line as you are, the original location was lost on my pickup long before I found her rusting away in a hedge. It's a case of finding what works best and making that work for you, maybe some one on here has a production image of that location showing how BMC solved it, in the meantime Neccesity is the mother of invention. My pickup is back on four wheels and no brake squeeks, the speedo is still not working, so I guess I need to renew it with a brand new one from ESM or Bull Motif. It was a real pea-super tonight as she brought me safely home from work.[frame][/frame]

Think Andy might be right about how close the loom appears to go to the brake/clutch pedal assembly, David. I think, in the absence of a lug on the chassis, next time you are underneath, I would pop a cable tie around it and cinch it up to the chassis to keep it out of harms way.

Been trying to see if I can find any info about the route of the loom to the rear 'cos that's on the cards shortly for my convertible too. C'mon guys, someone must have put a new loom on their car recently and could give us a clue? .

WHAT'S UP WITH THE SPEEDO, DAVID?
I REBUILT MINE NOT LONG AGO, SO MIGHT BE ABLE TO GIVE YOU A HAND IF NEED BE