Morris Minor Owners Club

all back together again this morning for her first long test run, fantastic! not a single drop of oil anywhere. what a great feeling, can't wait to fix the brakes, lights,horn and wiper and get her through her MOT and out on my first drive.[frame][/frame]

David
Slow down a bit.....you told me it would be ages before you were finished !!
I'm in the middle of decorating a room and I don't think taking time out to write your "congratulations" post is going to cut any ice with my wife.She wants the room finished before guests arrive next week.

I was only allowed a couple of hours off, first thing this morning, to get my classic car through it's MOT.
It passed, no advisories, but what a pathetic new style MOT certificate, now that all the records are computerised and the pass slip is printed on ordinary A4 copy paper.

Keep at it David. the list doesn't stretch to more than one page now, early Christmas present coming up.
Bob

thank you Bob, glad to hear she's keeping you busy, the project is moving on at a fair old pace, here the exhaust pipe clearance can be seen, it was in contact with the bulkhead, and that would have caused an unpleasant vibration and tapping. thats done, now on with the brake pipes. Do you think the speedo and fuel pipe are correct in this shot, or should I cable tie them back out of the way? [frame][/frame]

not sure how it is for LCV's, but on my saloons there is a double ended metal tag on the inside of the 'turret' behind the bulkhead, conveniently one side holds the speedo cable and one holds the fuel pipe.

if i've not described it well, i'll go and take a pic of it on my 2 door shell in the garage.

David,

Fantastic work, absolutely loving the project

The recent work you have just completed is identical to what i need to do to mine.

A question from a novice, don't judge , did you need to drain the oil before removing timing case cover plate? I have changed the gasket on my 803, but the engine was stripped down at the time so wasn't sure, as i need to change it on the pickup.

Also, where did you get your gear knob from? I ordered one from BM for them to tell me that they were out of stock. I did see the ones that the club were selling which looked okay but would preferably prefer a more stock looking piece.

Regards

Joe

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 1137a4fbed
gearknob

David
Chris is quite correct for a saloon but from previous shots of the engine bay/ bulkhead you don't have the metal tangs to retain the petrol pipe and speedo cable.
I'd go with your suggestion David, say three small cable ties, ensuring that the fuel pipe doesn't contact the bulkhead metal and that the speedo cable maintains a gentle path ( i.e no sharp turns, kinks ).

Joe...jumping in here, apologies...but no need to drain the oil from the engine.When you switch off the engine,the oil all drains back into the sump at the bottom.When the oil seal "goes" ,there will be a little more inside the timing cover than intended but not a huge amount.Just tip the cover slightly towards the front of car and remove upwards, keeping it in the same relative position.Lay out some old newspapers, with a jam jar, so you can tip the very small amount of oil into the jar for safe disposal at the Council Recycling Sation.
Handing you back to David.
Bob

Jo try ESM for your teardrop gear knob, they are on the web and have some in stock. part number 10g250. £7.50 +£1.50 vat, just as per Chris's link

Thanks guys, found them.

Bought the leather one though as personally i prefer it.

Regards

Joe

re-routing the front brake line, I chose to go under the engine and to hug the chassis leg for protection,then come up near the oil filter.[frame][/frame]

the main objective was to avoid chafing through engine vibration, I have achieved that, I had thought about re entering through one of the big holes in the tie plate, but that would mean crossing under the leg leaving the copper line vulnerable to road debris.[frame][/frame]

now to trace this tiresome leak in the joint between the brake and the line, Might be a cross threaded joint, in that case I may have to replce the section of line and the screw on union, lets hope I can just re seat it.[frame][/frame]

clean it off, then pump the brakes, and run blue paper along until you see wet on the blue paper. by far the easiest way of seeing where it's coming from.
if you see the vague wet area when you wipe it to begin with, you'll know where you're looking

davidmiles wrote:the main objective was to avoid chafing through engine vibration,

It's not just the chafing you should be concerned about, the vibration can also make the brake pipe fracture by causing metal fatigue. I know because it happened to me! See this thread: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... 3&p=344714 Make sure all brake pipes are secured and cannot vibrate!

Dryad wrote:

davidmiles wrote:the main objective was to avoid chafing through engine vibration,

It's not just the chafing you should be concerned about, the vibration can also make the brake pipe fracture by causing metal fatigue. I know because it happened to me! See this thread: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... 3&p=344714 Make sure all brake pipes are secured and cannot vibrate!

Which is why they are not legal in some countries!

David, your pipe looks like it is still too close to the filter housing, you need at least 1/2" clearance and the brake pipe secured as Dryad says.

The brake line should hug the bodywok and chassis rails etc. Try sliding a screwdriver or spanner handle down the tube while sort of bending it between your thumb and the tool. This should straighten it and avoid that festooning as is now.

I can see from your picture that that lock nut still needs tightening on the clutch lever!

yes the lock nut needs replacing as it is the wrong thread, you were all correct about the vulnerability of copper pipes, Ive found the source of the leak and it's not as the garage suggested the screw joint, it's the copper pipe itself, you can see the blackened section on the low forward bend, somehow, and I wonder if it was rubbed when it went up onto the hoist, the pipe has been in contact with something abrasive, I wondered at first if full lock made it contact the king pin, but ive checked it on full lock and there's nothing touching, mystery. Anyway at least ive identified the leak, so thats got to be renewed.[frame][/frame]

in the meantime Ive got some split pins to renew, the rear leaf spring mount on both sides. Does anyone know the Torque wrench settting for this nut?[frame][/frame]

i doubt there's a torque. for bushes the manual normally expresses it in a clearance between washer and bush. something like 1-5 though for top trunnion bushes. i've never bothered trying to measure, just don't crush the bush too much!