Morris Minor Owners Club

J yes it needs dipping, the water and oilways are blocked up like the engine has flu, pt you've got me thinking there, with the bashing the original pulley has taken, maybe some of that impact energy was transferred to the crank shaft, worth getting it inspected when I take it in. Finding a decent engineeers around here isn't prooving easy, they all know its a part time peoject and not a money spinner, Ive had a recomendation of southern engine services of Bognor, I'll check them out this week.[frame][/frame]

If its ok for you I'll take this picture for my use, or even better, in this picture you can easily see the oil pressure switch, can you tell me ho difficult or easy it is to unscrew, and with what nr wrench you use. Also because I can only see that it is round, and i'm not sure how to take it off so that I can put in a new one thanks, great job your doing

Be really careful about engineers that you use; I went for what looked like a great little local engineering place for rebuilding and LHDing the minor's gearbox. The guy there (said he) was experienced with Minor gearboxes, and happy to work on one...

Ye-ah. The 3 week gearbox rebuild took 6 months (during which time whenever I rang they were never working on it), included the phrase from them that 'Time is only a human concept, it doesn't apply to engineering' (or words to that effect*) only ended when I threatened to take them to court for breach of contract to get back my deposit.

I've encountered some very good places**, and some very bad ones in my area - so make sure you get some good recommendations



* My response was along the lines of 'So is money, and you won't be getting any more of mine unless you finish the gearbox by Friday'.
** The place that reconned the head on the Viva was excellent, but they don't do Minors.

Pyoor_Kate wrote:-snip-
I've encountered some very good places**, and some very bad ones in my area - so make sure you get some good recommendations
-snip-
** The place that reconned the head on the Viva was excellent, but they don't do Minors.

Good advice- I might like to add that your local branch should know decent local places to get engineering work done (and also the bad places where not to get it done.) Go along to your local branch meeting and ask.

I am surprised that an engineering shop would work on a Viva head and not a Minor?? Surely a cylinder head is a cylinder head!?

found a great little classic car workshop called autopics in Rustington West Sussex, some advice given re my crankshaft and cylinder block. They are working on a morris 1000 traveller at the moment, I'll see if I can get some shots up for you all to see. Anyone used autopics or heard of them?

I am surprised that an engineering shop would work on a Viva head and not a Minor?? Surely a cylinder head is a cylinder head!?

Something about not liking A series engines.

My local HiQ don't 'like' Volvos, one of the guys had his Viva (oddly enough) written off by a 240, and has since had an aversion to them. They still sort mine out for tyres though

But before oll of that I've got to reassemble the engine, the piston connecting rods are offset...[frame][/frame]

the two outer piston rods face inward and the two inner rods face outward[frame][/frame]

they need to clear the wall of the crank, so re assembly has to be completed carefully or the whole thing could jam up.[frame][/frame]

davidmiles wrote:the two outer piston rods face inward and the two inner rods face outward

I don't think that's right; they all face the same way.[frame][/frame]

they should indeed all face the same way

I'd say David is right! The rods are offset.

The rods are offset, but they should face the same way. From the workshop manual section AA.11:

It is essential that each connecting rod and piston assembly should be replaced in its own bore and fitted the same way round, ie. with the split skirt opposite to the thrust side and the gudgeon pin clamp screw on the same side as the split skirt, on the camshaft side of the engine. The piston crowns are marked 'FRONT' to facilitate this.

(There is no gudgeon pin clamp screw on the 948 and 1098 con-rods, but you get the idea.)

I agree with what you quote from the manual, but I'm wondering if we are trying to explain different things; I'm saying the offset of the rods are not facing the same way, which I think/thought David was meaning. If you look at the last post on page 50 you can pick this out on number 1 & 4 rod ?

Oh, OK, I get what you're saying now.

yes in a way we are all right, the pistons all face the same way but the con rods have offsets to one side that are designed that the inner two face out from the centre and the first and last rods face in toward the centre of the crank. Once I'd figured that out with carefull study of the manual and thanking my good luck that two of my pistons were still assembled, I was able to re assemble the pistons to the crankshaft and have them turn. I'd like to say smoothly, but it was a struggle at first, once the crank had been manually turned a couple of times things started to loosen up and smooth out. [frame][/frame]

Pyoor_Kate wrote:

I am surprised that an engineering shop would work on a Viva head and not a Minor?? Surely a cylinder head is a cylinder head!?

Something about not liking A series engines.

My local HiQ don't 'like' Volvos, one of the guys had his Viva (oddly enough) written off by a 240, and has since had an aversion to them. They still sort mine out for tyres though

What is there not to "like" about an A series?? It is a fantastic engine, a classic among engines. Seems to me these engineering works are not thinking in logical terms. For that reason I would avoid them and go to an engineering company that is logical. After all, engineering is precise, akin to science.

Les mentioned earlier about horrible tab work, I'm guilty there I'm afraid Les, three tabs are really hard to get at once the pistons are in the cylinders, you can only crank them around to the best location and try and tap them over as best you can. Trouble is you can't strike them cleanly. Still, job done, nuts tightened to 35ft lbs. Next..
The sump, Ive got the sump gaskets in position in this shot, where do those cork lengths go? (shown on the bench between the sump and the cylinder block.)[frame][/frame]

davidmiles wrote:yes in a way we are all right, the pistons all face the same way but the con rods have offsets to one side that are designed that the inner two face out from the centre and the first and last rods face in toward the centre of the crank. Once I'd figured that out with carefull study of the manual and thanking my good luck that two of my pistons were still assembled, I was able to re assemble the pistons to the crankshaft and have them turn. I'd like to say smoothly, but it was a struggle at first, once the crank had been manually turned a couple of times things started to loosen up and smooth out.[/frame]

Are you sure you've put the pistons back in the cylinders they originally came from? This is essential if you haven't fitted new piston rings and bearing shells because the rings will have worn to match the bores and the shells to match the crank journals. Usually there are numbers stamped on the con rods (number 1 is at the front end). You are supposed to also put the push rods and cam followers back in the same order incidentally.

yes, I put each piston into a numbered box as it came out of the engine, as they were stripped and cleaned all the components went into the numbered box for the piston. Essential to get the right piston back into its cylinder, as you say.
Sump with seals fitted as per the manual. Now for the back plate clean up.[frame][/frame]