Morris Minor Owners Club

right, used the methods described above, thanks, number 1 sparkplug out, screwdriver as a feeler to discern when piston 1 was at the top of it's stroke, ironically the rotor are points to four o'clock, then fitted the plugs 1,3,4,2 in an anti clockwise direction around the cap, finally, hope this is correct.[frame][/frame]

the Moss catalogue of Morris minor parts has a line drawing suggesting a spring this size is the one used for accelerator pedal return on the carb, can't quite tell where it fits on Peters images above, the attachment points are out of frame. The disagrams in the manual show it off to one side, help anybody?[frame][/frame]

Mine is connected like this:[frame][/frame]

there are two nuts on one side of the manifold to exhaust clamp, the second is to hold the spring in place. I think there was supposed to be a small L-shaped bracket to hold the spring here, but mine doesn't have one. Here's a second pic for clarity:

[frame][/frame]

Great pictures just what I want, many thanks

davidmiles wrote:right, used the methods described above, thanks, number 1 sparkplug out, screwdriver as a feeler to discern when piston 1 was at the top of it's stroke, ironically the rotor are points to four o'clock, then fitted the plugs 1,3,4,2 in an anti clockwise direction around the cap, finally, hope this is correct.[frame][/frame]

that might work, assuming you got the piston coming up on its compression stroke, not its exhaustion... you'll soon find out when you come to start up!

once you do get them in the right order, it might be a good idea to put cable ties around the leads as a numbering system. 1 tie on number one, 2 ties on number 2 etc. with the long tail trimmed off they look almost like they're meant to be there! you could even use red ones so they blend in and you only notice them if you look for them.

chrisryder wrote:

davidmiles wrote:right, used the methods described above, thanks, number 1 sparkplug out, screwdriver as a feeler to discern when piston 1 was at the top of it's stroke, ironically the rotor are points to four o'clock, then fitted the plugs 1,3,4,2 in an anti clockwise direction around the cap, finally, hope this is correct.[frame][/frame]

that might work, assuming you got the piston coming up on its compression stroke, not its exhaustion... you'll soon find out when you come to start up!

once you do get them in the right order, it might be a good idea to put cable ties around the leads as a numbering system. 1 tie on number one, 2 ties on number 2 etc. with the long tail trimmed off they look almost like they're meant to be there! you could even use red ones so they blend in and you only notice them if you look for them.

or tipex dots on the black end?

Take the rocker cover off and the disi cover. Rotate engine by hand in its proper direction as with starting handle. as No1 piston comes up you can tell when it's on compression stroke as BOTH inlet and exhaust valves will be closed IE the rockers will have play in them and not be tight on the valve stem. When piston is at top the rotor arm shoud be pointing roughly to No1 plug lead if the disi is 180 deg out then it will be pointing towarsd No4 lead and needs lifting out and turing round 180deg's

More nervous than a NASA flight controller on launch day.[frame][/frame]

up on the ramp under the keen eyes of the Automotion garage mechanics[frame][/frame]

first time ive ever seen the underside, this far away, looks different.[frame][/frame]

But hey, you've got plates now! Did it drive all right? No problems? We want a photo of you in it on the road! I'm on tinterhooks...

Thanks Fin, but you might have to wait a few days, Ive had to order a new Distributer for it as the one on the engine, the original, is shot. I somehow managed to kink the needle getting it into the Carburettor, so that needs replacing, Ive ordered that too, ESM, never let you down, I'll keep you updated, I hope I'll be driving it soon.

There is no connection between the registration plates and the car's status in the UK. It is straightforward for the owner to buy and fit new plates, especially for an older car. Of course the number has to match the vehicle records!

Aaaah. Another difference. Ah well, you'll be there soon, David!

Come on the suspence is killing me!!! Like waiting for a new baby!

I forgot to mention that the electrical system Ive changed to neg earth so the company that the garage used to provide the new "digital" distributer (same external appearance and dimensions)supplied it as a positive earth component, so it has been exchanged at no cost, they went on the year of manufacture, 1968. The needle arrived on time from ESM, any parts in future will be from ESM or BM supplied by myself.

the engine is running, unfortunatly not for too long, there is oil pouring out of the oil seal behind the front pulley wheel somewhere inside the chain cover, Ive to collect in on monday, tow it home and fix that myself so as to not incure garage fees for something I can fix myself, now what might be causing a oil leak there? I'll need to check over page 50 of part two

this is a very helpful image, it was taken during the re assembly of the engine last year, the pulley wheel is leaking oil and I wonder if this image shows I may have used the old lock tab washer and I failed to spot the felt seal, that looks worn away but plastered to the timing chain cover. With these replaced I may stop the oil leak on monday.
Actually, looking at this I wonder if there was an oil seal fitted at all. Could be a very simple fix.
[frame][/frame]

this image, again taken during the rebuild last year, shows the oil thrower fitted, the manual mentions it's curved side faces forward, which it is. So this is not the cause of the leak[frame][/frame]

all change, Stan called me this morning he was in and I could collect the pickup from the garage and Tow it home for some DIY[frame][/frame]