Morris Minor Owners Club

davidmiles wrote:Fin you're on the ball

As is the mirror now

Great progress today David, hopefully you could be motoring in a minor a week or twos time

well it's all booked in for an MOT in two weeks time, so I called my insurance company and they only want £45 a year to insure it. This is really going to shock some of my work friends who pay hundreds for motor insurance. Got the number plates on order from Framptons, sent them a photocopy of the V5C with a utility bill to prove I live where I say and own the vehicle, £40 something for pressed style plates with the attractive black border.[frame][/frame]

As I'm towing the Pickup to the Garage half a mile down the road, I'll need brakes, so in we go with some new brake fluid into my brand new master cylinder.[frame][/frame]

Neil MG, the carb needs final adjustment, the timing tweeking, the distributer tweeking, headlight alignment, steering tracking. These things I feel unqualified and too inexperienced to complete by myself. Lou, my next project, well I'd like to do a split screen, low light convertible, but Ive promised those nearest ansd dearest, who have been so patient over the restoration, that I'll do a camper van next, something British, don't fancy a vee dub, over priced. I saw a Bedford CA at a classic car show recently, loved it. May be looking for one next year.[frame][/frame]

Anyway, enough of this classic vehicle dreaming, back to the electrics, I'm getting 12 volts to the solenoid, but there is no reaction to the twist of the ignition key, no flicker on the speedo, no lights. where have I wired it up wrong?, there must be many possibilities to such a complex question.[frame][/frame]

I have changed the fuses in the unit next to the control box, but still nothing. There's got to be something Ive not done correctly.[frame][/frame]

The solenoid looks to be wired back to front. Swap the big cables from battery and to starter and you will have power!

David
Neil MG is spot on with his advice.
The power ...white wire... to the ignition switch has to be on the "positive" side of the battery, to be "live" and waiting for the key in the ignition to complete the circuit , when turned.
The solenoid operates, makes the "connection " battery / to the starter motor, thick wire...motor turns and starts the engine.Engine runs, ignition key pressure is released, no circuit to hold solenoid in, so no circuit to starter motor.
Been abroad for a week so I've been astonished with progress David, well done.
Bob

thanks Neil, swapped those around, switched the ignition and there was something, power, a mechanical rattle from the starter motor that I quickly cut off. thats the first step though. I have power[frame][/frame]

David
Another problem cracked.
Top picture Page 44 the handbrake cable,where the cable emerges from the outer sheath,needs a wipe/blob of grease.Coat the yoke, the nipple at the end of the cable, cotter pin assembly whilst you are at it, both sides.
Greasing the nipple on the sheath cables will push grease out to the visible ends but covering the rest will both protect the working parts from dust/ rain/ snow/ mud , etc and keep it all working smoothly and effeciently.
Bob

great Bob, welcome back to England, Ive used black all purpose grease that I purchased for the master cylinder boot. I had left it clear and exposed for the MOT, but I guess the MOT guy will want to see it greased. I'm also leaving off the timber rear cargo floor to let them see better, won't fail on that will it? It's not part of the structure strength ? Anyway Ive not got a piece of Marine ply for it yet.
Once I tightened the neg earth up the starter motor made a proper starter motor whir, sounded stronger this time.[frame][/frame]

David
MOT man won't care if it's greased or not !!.All he's interested in ..is whether his brake machine indicates acceptable operation or not.He'll yank on the hand brake to make sure it's solid and operates effectively.
Must confess I'm not sure on the load space wooden floor question.If you don't get an answer here on the Forum,I'd research that one sooner rather than later on the DVLA website ( ? ).
A number of vintage cars have wooden floorboards but for passenger safety I can see it being an issue but load space , mmm?
Not sure.
Bob

Best I get that sorted then, don't want to give them an excuse, (this is the grease I used) I wonder if Marine ply is the best solution?
I would like to test all the major components before the MOT, I still don't really know if the dynamo will do it's job, or if the starter motor will have enough left to start the engine.[frame][/frame]

the wiper motor and fuel pump are also untested, though I have a spare of each of those.[frame][/frame]

Dave, marine ply is very expensive, a decent quality exterior grade Malaysian ply will do the job just fine with a few coats of varnish. I have this as my long term plan is to make a bed out of t&g ash when I get around to machining some up.

Malasian ply, that sounds like a more cost effective option, thanks Paul. The gear stick gaiter is the next bit fitted. But as you can see I have a spurious gear knob fitted, looks like a Metro or Marina one, Moss had none in stock when I checked, so I'll try bull or ESM for one[frame][/frame]

David
The grease will be fine.Fingers crossed ...so should the battery have enough umph to get the car going.
Dynamo
Once the car is going, you can measure the battery volts with the revs up ( 1,000 rpm )to see that dynamo is pumping out
14.5/15 volts.If it does then the dynamo is good.
Wiper motor test.Lift the arms off the windscreen and leave at 90 degrees to the screen, i.e. no contact to glass.Ignition on first position , i.e not starting the car.operate the wiper switch....two chances..it works or it doesn't !!
Switch the ignition off before you cook the coil by leaving it on.Replace windscreen blades on the screen.
If it works and you are now feeling brave you can wet the screen with some water and operate/ switch off to make sure the
wipers park correctly.
BatteryIf you are worried about the battery, any chance you could borrow a battery charger from someone ?
Plan B for actually starting the car, do you have/ can you borrow jump leads for the intial start up ?
Fuel PumpDoes it "tick " when you switch the ignition on ?
Bob

if they're feeling picky, the mot man wont like the gearstick gaiter with the split in.

Ive just looked through our mot testers manual and can't find a rfr (reason for refusal) for a split in a gearsick gaiter. I think it would be ok