Morris Minor Owners Club

to get the suspension arm out of the way, the jack had to be positioned under the suspension and the whole unit raised till enough clearance allowed the bump stops to be replaced. finally a coat of black paint to keep the rain out, job done.
oK, whats next...
[frame][/frame]

David
The bump stops in their rightful place, well done.
If you're having to ask "what's next " the list must be getting shorter !!
Can't do the glove box liner until the wiper spindles are sorted.Cable tie stray wiring, behind the dash, to a suitable home, to make it neat and tidy ? Sound deading felt on the bulkhead could go in, without obstructing anything ?

If the door furniture is all back in, greased and working ok, the door trim could go in.Stick ( gaffer tape ) some thick plastic sheeting behind to stop the rear of the hardboard trim from getting wet.Some people go the whole hog and put a couple of coats of varnish on the reverse side ,to stop damp pentration.Pierce the plastic/ gaffer tape for the trim clips to enter..DON'T forget the springs go behind the trim board, small end of the cone shape towards the outside of the door.The large end of the cone shape towards the back of the hardboard, to spread the load.
Start at the top and the work down the sides to the bottom.A pinch of vaseline will help ease the clips in.Get each run aligned first, before banging home with the heel of your open hand.Lying down on the job, looking upwards makes life easier.
Under felt / sound deadening, carpets, door seals to be tapped home around the perimeter.Have the join at the bottom of the door opening, dead centre.
Interior light ? Sun visors ?
Out with the clip board, pen and a bit of paper, you'll find plenty of things before you get bored.

Carry on and keep calm.
Bob

May be of help, as Bob suggests, to sit down and make a list of everything you can think of. I've made many for Mog and it really does keep you in line (and dedicated to the project).

davidmiles wrote:most problems of the world can be fixed with a cardboard template and a ball pein hammer, thanks Bob, the bump stops are in.[frame][/frame]

Chap I know at work had his wife leave him recently and is about to lose his house, his job's on the line as well.------------- I'm taking him some cardboard and a ball pein hammer round tomorrow.

I should run for president based on this sage knowledge! The economy? Fixed. The national debt? Paid. War, violent crime, capital punishment? History. Oh, and of course, Mog finished!

ok, not everything can be fixed with cardboard and a hammer, but a lot of car stuff can...
Moss can't help me with my missing wheelbox to bodywork rubber bushes, so either I make some, buy second hand or find another dealer that does, so long as they hold the wheel box at the right angle and keep out water, jobs a goodun,( as Ed China from Wheeler dealer on Shed Channel once said.) It's cutting that angle when you don't know what it is, thats the problem.
so, following Bob and Fin's advice here's my list:

cable tie loose cables away under dash and chassis
seal bottom of cab back
get wide tyres fitted to wide rims, fit those wheels
add sound proofing to inside of dash
sort wing and rear view mirrors
scrub clean the sunvisor and fit
add washer system including the jets Ive ordered from Moss
add the new bleed nipples to each wheel station

that should keep me going for a while.[frame][/frame]

Hope you haven't taken me too seriously Dave, just a bit of a leg pull !

Les you leg puller, have you got a picture of the wheelbox to body Bush by any chance, I need to cut a pair out tommorow and I need a angle guide, measure twice cut once, as you always say.

Picture of lower bush

you're a total Gentleman, thank you very much Les

i would have suggested you use the bezel as the angle guide, but les has come to the rescue!

you may fine the bezel isn't the same angle. i know some repro ones are a bit off, so you might want to check the angle of those before proceeding. whether you file them so they are that magic 40 degrees, or whether you make you sleeve/bush the same angle as the bezel, is up to you!

thats the wipers in and fitted, plus the original rather worse for wear wing mirror, it may not look that great but it'll do for now.[frame][/frame]

it'll need some glass cleaner in time for the MOT.[frame][/frame]

Hi dave
Keep up the good work.

Is the drivers side head light a bit squiff. I dont think it looks quite right, I think it needs to be turned in its mount.

Have you got the engine going, thats got to be the best bit of any resto project is to hear the engine start for the first time, its a major uplift after years of hard work. I actually recorded my first start up with a video camera on a tripod.

Cheers

S

I haven't had the engine running yet S, there are a dozen adjustments to be made before she's ready for the road, the headlights being one, I'm not happy with the tail ruby security either, they come loose very easily, there isn't enough of a rubber lip covering the chrome bezel.[frame][/frame]

then there's the horn push to think about, this needs tinkering to make it fit.[frame][/frame]

the horn push should literally just push in. in theory there is a little clip on one side, which can make it a bit stiff to fit, but it should just go on.

Might consider fitting the driver's glovebox and cover before the wheel! Makes it much easier.

why have you got two red lenses on the rear? or is it a trick of the light?

Regarding your rear lights, the lenses are held in place by a built in inner rubber surround and will be held in place on there own before you fit the outer chrome ring. Perhaps you have fitted both parts together finding they do not push in enough?