Morris Minor Owners Club

Lots of metal business first mate then the fun will start with the wood, fingers crossed it`ll be ready for the next website rally.

Here is how I recently repaired and painted the rear n/s wing on my traveller;-

http://homepages.gotadsl.co.uk/~jgm/ekm ... rwing.html

http://homepages.gotadsl.co.uk/~jgm/ekm ... inted.html





much more fun than just buying a new wing!!



Not perfect (yet ;)), but very satisfying!!!! :):)

Finished article looks good John. You've put the time in, done it properly and it shows.

Thanks Cam! I'm learning bit by bit, and its good ammo for the cellulose vs 2 pack debate ;);););) (only joking!)

but seriously, I really, really enjoyed repairing the wing and will try and do my 4-door panels a bit better again. This was the first time with spraygun and compressor, previous paint was with aerosol cans.

any advise from experienced painters/bodyshop welcome!

chickenjohn wrote:Thanks Cam! I'm learning bit by bit, and its good ammo for the cellulose vs 2 pack debate ;);););) (only joking!)

Certainly is mate! Keep the ammo coming!!

but seriously, I really, really enjoyed repairing the wing and will try and do my 4-door panels a bit better again. This was the first time with spraygun and compressor, previous paint was with aerosol cans.

Spraying is where I fall down as I don't have a compressor or a dust free place to do it or the skill. I have only ever used aerosols and although I've had reasonable results, it's VERY expensive!

If you don't mind telling us, what compressor/gun etc have you used?

I have been toying with the idea of a compresor for a while and the more I see people that have done good work with theirs the more I am tempted to have a go!

Hi Cam,
if you look closely at the panel I did, its not perfect, but better, "out of the gun" than the ones I did with spray cans. The front wing you can see on my Traveller signature was done with aerosol cans, but needed quite a lot of wet sanding with 1000/1200 wet and dry, and then rubbing with the G3 paste to get a nice finish.

I took Brixtons advice and bought a Shiremoor compressor, the biggest one I could run off domestic electricity and fit in the available space in the garage.

Its a 15cfm compressor with a 50L tank. Its amazing how quickly you can put the paint on with a gun versus cans, and each coat from the gun seems about twice as thick from cans.

I won't be doing any more painting till the spring as Cellulose paint and cold damp weather don't get on too well.

The spray gun I used was a cheap one that came with a kit, so a decent one should be even better.

Having a compressor is great for blowing up tyres, using air tools and makes waxoyling the underside a thousand times easier!

You should apply for one of my job vacancies John!!!

yeah, keep practicing john, my splitty should be ready a paint job in january mate

Steve- will be too cold in January for celly. Unless you have a heated dust free garage.

Jonathon- thanks for the job offer! ;) but I think we;d have too many "discussions", celly vs 2pac etc ;);););) and its a wee bit long way for me to commute! I'd appreciate any hints and tips you may have etc.

S'okay, what do you want to know, or what probs do you have?

Well, apart from the probs I know (or think I know the cause of), the main one is I can't seem to get on well with using stopper/ cellulose putty for filling small imperfections etc.

Either I'm not using it right or using the wrong stuff, or I have an old tin of it!

The stuff takes ages to dry, and seems impossible to sand without leaving a visible edge. It seems more brittle than body filler. Then when the final coat of primer seems OK, I get sinkage into the stopper (I don't have this problem with filler, only stopper).

Next panel I do I'm just going to touch in any small imperfections in the primer coat with filler primer, out of the tin with a small brush...

John, I think your problem may stem from the stopper you are using. There are two types, a cellulose and an acrylic version, if you put cellolose stopper on cellulose primer then you should re prime before top coat. Unfortunately the nature of cellulose means that it is highly prone to sinkage. If you trap filler or stopper between two layers of cellulose then this will inevitably sink. Stopper as you point out is an air drying product, unlike filler which uses a catalyst to make it harden. When filling a panel always make sure that all air bubbles are removed,try and get the surface as flat and smooth as possible. If you need to go over the filler to stop up any imperfections then always use your air line to blow away any loose dust which may be filling the air holes.
Check that the stopper is not past its use by date, and try a little heat on the area you have worked on juat to help it go off better. Try the finger nail test too, if you can drag your nail over the stopper and it comes off then remove it all and re apply standard filler, do not however use filler on top of cellulose primer or slse it will definately sink, remove the primer and apply to the original filler.
Hope this helps, please ask if you have further problems.
Thought you may be interested in the new waterbased paints. Water based will only apply to solid colours (as on moggies) and laquer. Now most cars today are clear over base, i.e the colour even when not metalic, is applied as a basecoat, then cleared with laquer. The basecoat is still the same product as we use now, i.e full of cyanide.
Rather a strange idea I thought!

Thanks Jonothan, I shall look for a fresh tin of acrylic stopper and give that a go!!