Morris Minor Owners Club

Today did some emergency stops (without the emergencies). From 40/45mph on smooth dry tarmac I can make the rear wheels just lock, which seems about right. But the fronts, while working well and straight, don't lock. On damp roads the rears lock but the fronts still don't.
I'd expect to lock the fronts in extremis, especially on damp roads - so tomorrow off with the fronts!
Thanks for all your advice, MikeN.

Even my old 948 Minor nearly put the driving examiner through the screen when I did my 'Emergency Stop' during my driving test - over 40 years ago now ! It could certainly lock all four wheels. I do believe the modern 'asbestos free' linings have a much poorer coefficient of friction than in the good old days. You could always take it to your local 'friendly' MOT station and ask if you can have a go on the brake test rollers - if they know you well they may let you on for free !

Elsewhere I've been advised to look out for old riveted linings as giving better brakes. Probably asbestos of course. Is there any truth in it?
I was thinking of starting another topic on brake materials. When I was young and daft and we fitted clapped out Gold Star cams in our B32s and M20s and thought they went faster, we could chose from a range of brake materials. None seem available now. Does anyone supply brake mateial by the roll? And much time was spent on air scoops, shrunk on fins, etc to improve the drum brakes. Did anyone do this on Minor/minis before discs arrived? MikeN.

Does anyone supply brake mateial by the roll?

Well, you can definately buy sheets of it in 1/4" and 3/8"

it does come in rolls. dunno where to buy those though

I'm sure Ferodo would help as they seem quite helpful generally.

http://www.ferodo.co.uk/

Mike,

Just a thought (I know, treat it carefully, it's in a strange place!), if your front brakes are adjusted as per the book (i.e adjusted till solid, then backed off 1 click) - is it possible that they have been rebuilt?
It's possible that they've been converted from 2 leading shoes to 1 leading/1 trailing (like the rear brakes), or even 2 trailing.....

That could explain the lower efficiency (?)

Yesterday I was coming home from ESM - via Arundel & a friend (along with a nice friendly pub). Coming along the A roads I was rather suprised just how well I was able to keep up with the traffic. Not in terms of acceleration and top speed (Someone's bought my dream car - N), but in general handling and cornering. the J reg BMW behind me nearly steered off the road on some of the bends....

all the best,

Colin

Colin, You can have a ride next time I'm your way - or perhaps at the next rally!

Nikki,

Many thanks - perhaps you should have an accessory:-
http://www.carseatcovers.co.uk/ProductSeatCovFront.htm ?

But seriously, the number of people who can't overtake (safely) on a standard A road is worrying - most seem hapy to poodle along behind the tractor, wait for a dual cariageway, then form a queue at 70mph+ about 25 feet apart....

Colin

COLINP...what an excellent suggestion. If his car has been converted to
8 inch fronts and the back plates are on the wrong side of the car(they are
handed) he will indeed have two trailing shoe fronts!! They would be fantastic
in reverse though!

I'm sure it's the brake material - my Wolseley brakes seem to be the older (cough cough) asbestos type - and work very well indeed !

really? you didn't mention that before! Or did you?

..and we all know how easy Asbestos is to handle!

Heard it on the news today.. Many more people infected with cancer duer to asbestos

There's different types of asbestos, but I don't know which one is found in brake linings. None of them are exactly healthy if inhaled of course!

ColinP,
Checked my brakes and thank goodness, they are twin leading shoes! You had me going there for a moment!
I've vacuumed out the dust and given them a fettling with a toothbrush and done a little adjustment. But really there isn't anything obviously wrong with them. They look perfect, fully bedded in and no oil leaks. (That's a rarity!) So tomorrow some more road tests.
Still thinking about lining them myself. Any one got drilled shoes?
And talking of drilling, anyone else remember drilled drums a la 1960's Matchless G50s? I think it was a proper factory job, not private. Must have been well done to prevent crack propogation.
I think I'm turning into a ROF! MikeN.

Mike,

I'm really glad I was wrong!

the only other things I can think of are the Obvious ones like a bit of grot in one of the pipes, flexible hoses (swelling slightly when braking)....

If I remember properly, rivitting brake linings to the drums is easy enough (provided you get the correct holes drilled in the linings - much easier to get them ready made. The rivets are quite soft (Hammer, drift and solid "dolly" behind).

I suppose it's possible that you have different lining materials front/back, but I'm suprised it would make that much difference.

Mind ou, I had to change a pair of 20+year old dunlops on my 1098 - the rubber had very little grip (plenty of tread, just little grip) so I could lose the rear end very easily.

No I don't remember the Mathcless, but you normally drill a hole to stop a crack propogation (spreads the stress)

All the best,

Colin

Well friends, tried crash stops again and no noticeable improvement. Hey ho! I get my Wolseley nine inchers in the next ten days so I'll just take care till then.
Re the drillings, these were mid way across and thro' the front drums braking surfaces - about a dozen 1/8 inch holes for ventilation I assume. Never seen it before or since which may mean something! But the just the right place to pump cooling air. Regards and thanks for all your advice and comments, MikeN.

Well done Mike - where did you find the Wolseley brakes - they seem to be like hens' teeth !

TerryG & Wanderinstar tipped me off on the first page of this read! Were in the spares for sale part of Minor Matters - you should join the club! And read all these messages!
And when I've got that head of yours (as was) fitted I'll need them. MikeN.