Morris Minor Owners Club

Not much use due to the radiator support bar and thermostat elbow. There's just enough room to get in and feel them yield with a specific spanner in the toolbox ;)

Hi,
was out of station on work. took leave from office and fit the engine back in.
Good news is, been on a trial run. All went well on the drive, uphill-downhill...... traffic made us slowdown a lot.
Following needs to be looked into and will be attended in time come.
1.Carburetor adjustment
2.break adjustment.
3. distributor adjustment to get the timing a little better.
4. other small issues required will be taken care.

After returning from the drive observed water leak as shown in the picture below, please let me know how bad is it and what action should i be taking to rectify this.

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Front core plug is leaking and should be replaced. Take the radiator and dynamo off.
If it was the back core plug you would have to take the engine out

hi,
It is the front core plug. read some posts on MMOC. Where can i get these from?
I checked the approx diameter with a measuring scale read 1.35 inches.
regards

Try MMOC Club Spares. Let me know if you get them and if not I will try to get some from the Morris Register. Do not touch your core plug until you get a replacement as we may have to get some made

They are also on ebay, or are these the wrong type?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dish-Core-Plu ... 483c95a019

hi,

Bad news.. had taken car again on trials last week was driving uphill and felt car loosing

power.. stopped twice en-route, drove back home. observed little water out of exhaust,

radiator water level little down. Took few drops of oil from dip stick and put in water -

it did spread in water. The water temperature during trial was below 82 degree celsius.

Removed the head the gasket had leaked between cylinder 2-3 ( a bulge noticed in the

gasket).

Note: during fixing the head had noticed a tiny gap at the center of the head and was

told it can be manged and will seal after tightening.
took the head to a tool room institution and got it skimmed - 0.21 mm - 0.00826 inches.

the leak was at the area marked in yellow.[frame][/frame]

Hello ,
Contacted mr Bryan by email for block core plug , he is away and has asked to contact mr Alan Scott.
How can I get in touch with this gentleman .. Kindly advise .

Pradeep

The head gasket always has a dent in it between the distributor drive shaft and the centre head stud, this is because there is a water passage in the block but not in the head. If you still nead a core plug I will try to get one. I do not have Alan Scott's phone no.

Sorry to hear about your problems with the cylinder head and gasket. I had two heads that had cracks in them, in both cases across the narrow section on one end i.e. outside nos 1 and 4 cylinders. If possible you should get yours crack tested to double check it is ok. Crack test kits are actually available via e-bay (isn't everything available on e-bay??). People with small piston engined aeroplanes need to have various things crack tested as part of service requirements.
Then, make sure all the head studs are "bottomed" and fit hardened steel washers.
The core plugs referenced by 'tvderf' above your note look good to me and are quoted for Morris 8 and MM, again on e-bay. It looks like a professional dealer so they should be able to send them out to you. You get 3 plugs per set, plenty!
best of luck
Colin

Hello,

Got the core plugs..could not do any works, been travelling. In sri Lanka since two months on project work.
Took this opportunity and got in touch with Mr Sandun and will be meeting him tomorrow and he shall help me in inspecting 2 side valve head engines tomorrow. If in good condition shall pick one and keep it as a spare (will ship it to india).

I shall be back by december 10 to india and shall continue the works on my car.

Hello,
Back at home from sri lanka works. Will share pics and details of what i saw there.
Before leaving for project in the month of august got the Head skimmed, one thing i did not mention here is about the condition of the threads of the studs (all 4 ) on block at the carburetor side.All were in bad state ( corroded) and during tightening they slipped.
As advised by the mechanic and also my observation, we had to oversize the block thread to M12 and to have a perfect fit of head the stud upper section where made to M10 size.

With new head gasket and head in started to torque from 30 and to +5 in steps and in order.
Now all have been torqued to 44 lb.ft except number 10 which went just above 40 ft lb (may be 41-42 not sure). had to stop there as we suspect the bottom may pull off again.
Keeping fingers crossed that it will withstand and will take trial runs after doing radiator connection.

Comments on the number 10 stud are most welcome.

I got the original air filter meant for side valve in sri lanka.

thanks

Started with smaller torque bar which is max
Upto 50 lbft. We went upto 40 and not above that.
Then we used another torque bar which starts at 40lb.ft
Check all studs at 40 again all ok.

Pic 1[frame][/frame]

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Hi Guys
Re Tvd's link to dished core plugs they appear to look OK but their claim that they fit a 918 cc. SV with a bore and stroke of
56 mm. X 76 mm. makes one wonder. The bore and stroke is 57 X 90 !
Cheers Bob

Hi,
Yes the bore and stroke is 57 X 90. I did get the core plugs from Ebay! Fixed correctly.
I asked my bro to buy 2 and he brought 2 sets (6 pcs), If any one wants a set let me know i can post them to your address.

Keeping fingers crossed, Hope to start and get ready for trial run this weekend. Hope i pull out of this one. If the engine block new threads hold i will be through.
will update.

P)leased to hear the core plugs worked out OK. What did we ever do before "the bay" came along?
After you have run the engine for just a short time you will find that you will get up to half a turn on the stud nuts, so re-torque after say a hundred miles, and then again at the recommended mileage.
best of luck
Colin

Merry Christmas to all.

Starting issues again related to plugs.
Brought 4 plugs again from MICO-BOSCH and the the engine started first crank with the help of choke for few seconds (4-5).
before i continue the plug issues here are the readings in OHMS.

HT lead at coil to distirbutor cap screw - 0.2 ohms (that's lead resistance of meter)
coil input screw on distirbutor cap to the carbon button top - 14 Mega ohms
4 numbers Individual cylinder HT leads to the respective brass leads - 0.3 to 0.8 ohms

The new plugs i bought are 4th sets. Whenever i had this 3-4 months break and try to start the engine it just does not start, just go on cranking but no ignition/start of engine. I have noticed that i do not get a good spark on the plugs (A tiny spark only)
As i put new plugs i get a good big spark. the engine starts with ease.

Iam a bit suspicious about the carbon button resistance, More the resistance then there will drop in voltage.
And how is it causing problems in spark plugs? new spark plugs work well.

Any suggestion/advice ?