Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi El,

when you're in a situation which I think a lot of us are (I know at least myself, Kate and you) - you really don't want to be spending oodles of money on a mog. Since Buying Hebe, I've spent a reasonable amount on getting various bits upgraded, knowing that it's only a matter of time before I have to take her off the road and completely restore her. (Something we've timelined in the future and hopefully will have the budget for)

It really is a sad state. I'm very emotionally attached to my mog (I know it's sad) and right now, I'd probably do quite a bit to keep her on the road. I knew when I got her that there were a few nasty bits, and I also knew that there would be moments when I'd have to sigh and fork out more money. (Luckily it seems a bit of work this morning managed to stave off one such incident of forking out more money).

If you're wanting a mog as a daily driver, which again, I know Pyoor_kate and I and several others on the list do, you want a mog which is pretty secure mechanically and pretty good structurally. This is the time of year to find out that your car is or isn't, since you really don't want to find either of them out in themiddle of a dark cold night!

Think long and hard about the recovery plan. I'm not saying I think you should get rid of Dolly, but, it has been suggested you sell her back if he's willing for a refund. She obviously works, and obviously has things which need doing, but you need to ask yourself practically if she's safe to use while you're waiting for repairs (which provided you tackle them quite quickly they are in most situations)... I also know from personal experience that there are people out there who have decent minors for sale at something approaching what you paid - they may look scabby but they are structurally and mechanically sound.

Pah... I guess I'm saying that you don't want to be late for a new job because you got too attached ;)

As far as the brakes go... No, you shouldn't pull to one side.

Firstly, check your tire pressures. They should be 24 psi on the front, and 26psi on the back

Then, turn your attention to the brake drums...

You can have a look at this yourself if you have a phillips screwdriver, your jack and your wheel brace...

Take off your Hubcap, undo the four bolts on one of the wheels (a little) - as if you were going to change the wheel.

Take your spare wheel out of the boot and put it underneat the car by the wheel you want to jack up.


Chock the car (using a brick or something behind the other three wheels, and find somewhere solid to jack your car up by (both ground and on the car... Your jacking points may not be so solid, so most people use a firm piece of crossmember)

Jack that wheel up, take off the bolts and the wheel, and remove the four phillips screws on the wheel drum.

Have a look at the pads... if they look really badly worn, it could be the reason for your brakes pulling to one side. Another possibility is a brake cylinder which has ceased to operate. If you get someone else to push on the brake pedal, you should see the cyclinder moving the pads...

Check each wheel like this.

I would say to adjust each brake, but to be completely honest, you don't want to do anything to "change" the car until you've decided to keep her or not.

At least by inspecting each brake in turn, you should be able to see visibly any damage or wear.

Another thought - I don't know how you funded your car, but some car loan places (if that's how you funded it) provide car - inspections... Just a thought.


Good luck - and remember, there are very few minors which are completely unsavable, but a lot which are economically just too tough to fix... Don't feel bad about it. It's just one of those things... A bit like (and here come my own personal thoughts on the matter so the usual disclaimer that it's not the MMOC's view etc etc) keeping a very sick animal alive when it's in pain and has no chance of survival...

Nikki

........I wonder if Keith would do a compromise - buy new parts, but do the fitting himself........ just thinking out-loud.........

Could someone who's followed the thread and looked at the pics make a rough guess as to how much the total new parts I'd need would cost? I'll look at the catalogue, Thanks Kevin, but it'll take me hours to work out what each piece is (not having a trained eye) and adding it all up! (ahh poor dear!)

Wow thanks. Great instructions, Nikki.

I havn't used a jack as yet, and whats a wheel brace?

- I've been squeezing underneith!

Oooh, while I remember...

NEVER, EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER get under an unsupported mog, and NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER get under a jacked up mog



supported mog = all 4 wheels on the ground

If you're happy with the quality of his work, then that could be some form of reasonable comprimise. It depends how much he's willing to do, and how much you want him to do (and whether those coincide).......I think the parts for the job would be relatively cheap, it's always the labour that's the killer on restoration, and really I think the labour that makes the difference between a repairable minor and one that's irreprable. At the end of the day it's a hard decision *but* if he's willing to do enough, and you can get enough parts you could end up with a *really* good deal

The car does appear, from the photos, to be cosmetically pretty good (way better than Rebecca, but that's not hard!). If she's mechanically good (although you probably want to play with your brakes a bit) then if he's willing to do the work and you're willing to sit and stare at a parts list and sort out what you need then it could in the end, be an excellent idea. If you were nearer I'd offer use of Kate's ramps and Kate's brain, but uh, I think you're at least two hours away... which is a bit of a trek!

... and willing to phone around for parts...

Don't just go to one place... make sure you get the best quote !

remove the four phillips screws on the wheel drum.

Thats interesting

Have a look at the pads...

Even more interesting, are you having a hectic day Nikki.

Just a small comment EL as you are not mechanically knowledgeable at the moment, please don`t start with the brakes get your friend John to show you whats what especially when it comes to jacking the car up for the 1st time.

they may look scabby but they are structurally and mechanically sound

hmm - actually those ones can be found for less than half what you paid - the trick is to find out which ones are good but just look tatty (like Riley did) and which ones are total wrecks....

For what you paid you will be able to find a structurally and mechanically sound Mog that also looks reasonable, but in that price range you will also come across plenty of bad cars with shiny paint.

Kevin,

I meant the four screws holding the brake drum on...



At least, they're phillips on my car...

*cough*

[whisper] there's only two on mine...[/whisper]

Oh, and I think you meant shoes rather than pads, but it made sense to me... Stop nitpicking, Kevin! Disc brakes have pads, and drums have shoes. Can't see why, but there you go.

I meant the four screws holding the brake drums on...

surely there's 8 screws altogether Nic ...;-)


(2 per drum)

Okay

well, see, my brakes are always tip top so erm... *cough*

*wink*



And Ray, you just found the easiest way to annoy me...

Nik or Nikki !!! or even Nichola... But Never Nic!

Its ok! I'll not be mangling my brakes.... yet!
(I think Keith might re-think his offer if I started 'improving' things now...)

hi
well it seems it all may end up ok for you, but i would seriously consider the offer of him buying the car back.

rose tinted glasses may cost in the long run.

You can easily pass an MOT by welding plates around the spring hangar but this is not how it should be done and I bet money that no moggy centre would do that.

Hate to disapoint you Ray but I do know of one so called moggie specialist that will weld patch upon patch upon patch and cuts every corner he can. I have seen his work and I was speachless. when I said "wouldn't it be better to weld a new panel in instead of those patch's" he replied "naa, if you put enough underseal on they don't notice. That way I won't run out of work". There are people out there that will rip honest folk off, so you should ask to see examples of their work or even before and after photo's.

Glad you are getting it sorted Relfy. The friendly aprotch gets best results.

me too

so called specialists are sometimes the worst and not just garages

Good to see your still doing it!

IMO take it back and have a look at a few more....research!!!
I've seen two for sale in plymouth recently one at £650 and the other, a nice blue one driven by a lady with a sign in the widow asking £1300. if you like, and if i see her again, i'll have a look although i can't promise when.
sb

Hi El
just had another closer look at your pictures and it looks like there is plenty to be done for the long term survival and the underneath is bad enough on its own but the `A` post is also another horrible area to have repaired, a guess that to have everything sorted properly may cost up to a £1,000 as what you can see is always worse underneath this is due to the iceberg pricepal.

Kevin,

Is this the principal (a) whereby the part below water is always several times the size of the part above?

Or the principle (b) where all the little fish and algae eat the bottom of the iceberg, which then flips over (in accordance with principle a), and kills you as you innocently pass in your little canoe?



p.s. sb, yes please, no harm in looking, at either car! Although Dolly isn't gone yet... This man in Redruth appears to be on holiday which is a bit poor timing. How thoughtless of him. Tut.

Is this the principal (a) whereby the part below water is always several times the size of the part above?

Yes thats the one that applies to rust. although the second one sounds more interesting what sort of hobbies involve canoeing next to icebergs