Morris Minor Owners Club

chickenjohn wrote: Youngun, I'd be keen to see your pics too!

Ask and you shall receive, im fairly pleased with the result. Ill do the other one tommorrow.

http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... e08001.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... e08003.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... e08004.jpg


YG

Wow YG, your car looks to be in the same condition as mine http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s192/nslocomotives/ , I have the same amount of work to do on mine, I have been looking at your photos closely as I have a five door two, did you find it hard to align the door gaps I notice you used a piece of square tubing, my problem is the drivers door has dropped a bit already and I would like to fix that before I weld it all back up, should I clamp up the door then weld the piece of tub in place then remove the door?

I had wondered about propping the car up on breeze blocks so I can get underneath her but was worried about the safety aspect, but seeing how you have done it I think I will do the same.

Keep the pictures coming they are great for reference, I have to replace my welder after it got stolen then I will be away again, but one question how much have you spent on repair panels and welding wire so far?

very encouraging thanks

nslocomotive2 wrote:Wow YG, your car looks to be in the same condition as mine http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s192/nslocomotives/ , I have the same amount of work to do on mine, I have been looking at your photos closely as I have a five door two, did you find it hard to align the door gaps I notice you used a piece of square tubing, my problem is the drivers door has dropped a bit already and I would like to fix that before I weld it all back up, should I clamp up the door then weld the piece of tub in place then remove the door?

I had wondered about propping the car up on breeze blocks so I can get underneath her but was worried about the safety aspect, but seeing how you have done it I think I will do the same.

Keep the pictures coming they are great for reference, I have to replace my welder after it got stolen then I will be away again, but one question how much have you spent on repair panels and welding wire so far?

very encouraging thanks

Im very glad that my photos have been of help, I plan to do a write up in minor matters and maybe a small guide once i have finished. Propping the car on breeze blocks is perfectly safe, just make sure the blocks are on something solid!
The square tubing was welded on before i cut all the sills out, this was to ensure nothing sagged or bent when the structural stuff was cut out, the doors themselves have no structural aspect, so just take the doors off and weld a piece of 1 inch box iron across the door frame When doing the sills i continuously re-fitted the doors to make sure all was well.
So far i have used 2 welding wire spools (5KG), which are roughly 15 quid each. I think so far i have spent roughly £500 on repair panels.

all the best,
YG

Propping the car on breeze blocks ISN'T really safe, as they can crumble unexpectedly. Use proper stnds/spare wheels/blocks of good solid wood

bigginger wrote:Propping the car on breeze blocks ISN'T really safe, as they can crumble unexpectedly. Use proper stnds/spare wheels/blocks of good solid wood

My car has been on them for just under a year now.....no problems at all.

Lucky old you.
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If you want to live to be an oldgun,do as BG says

nslocomotive2 wrote:Can I ask is seam sealer used only for the under side welds? should I be using it, I have been welding in a new boot floor and the lower section of the back end and I am unsure weather to use this stuff on the parts of the body that will be seen, can it be painted over ok?

Yes you can use it inside the car and paint over it, in fact many original welds are covered in seam sealer at the factory.
When you say on parts of the body that can be seen I assume you mean inside the boot etc, it is not used on outer panels!
Dave

youngun wrote:My car has been on them for just under a year now.....no problems at all.

Yes I agree all the methods have there hazards, Ive seen my father pull a car down ontop of himself when it was on axle stands fortunately the wheels were on the car at the time.

246gts wrote:Yes you can use it inside the car and paint over it, in fact many original welds are covered in seam sealer at the factory.
When you say on parts of the body that can be seen I assume you mean inside the boot etc, it is not used on outer panels!
Dave

OK that answered my question, I didn't know if I should be using it on the outer surfaces of the body or not Being a self taught restorer I wouldn't want to miss anything that would cause me to have to do all this again.... Thanks

youngun wrote:My car has been on them for just under a year now.....no problems at all.

better safe, than sorry though. Ive seen all sorts of stuff used for stands (including car batteries!!!)
Ive found that lumps of old railway sleeper can be useful. (and can be found easily at preserved railways, if you can find a narrow gauge/minature railway then they might even have off cuts!)

I saw your comment about the axle stands, Ive had a volvo start coming off a 2 post lift (sills were shot), ive seen a few come close to coming off "H" ramps. on the other hand ive seen coaches on 8'-9' axle stands (about 15 tonnes).

It is entirely your decision what to use, but the numbers and research show that there are more accidents not using axle stands, than there are using them. The other side of the coin is the other consequenses that could potentially be caused, would life insurance pay out? and more so, who would finish your minor

Please dont think that im giving you greif specifically because we all know there will be people reading, doing the same (I know that when I was younger i did some daft stuff!)
To all the other people using "less than perfect objects" DONT!

P.s. if the wheels are still on then have you considered wheel ramps? it would give you more room under there if you turn 1 pair so that all the slopes point away from each other, (this also eliminates the risk of rolling down them).

I can see everyones point, but my rekkoning is that if they were going to break they would have done so by now. Oh and the car is resiting on lumps of oak floorboard which are then on breeze blocks

A rather curious point, really, though the oak makes a difference.

I don't fancy the breeze block though........

...as I pointed out a while ago
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The timbers will spread the load out presumably making the blocks less likely to break up than if the car was placed directly on them.

bigginger wrote:though the oak makes a difference.

Are my posts not appearing or something? ;)
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I think they are, everyones chucking in their pennys worth though and making me feel annoyingly unsafe!

bigginger wrote:

bigginger wrote:though the oak makes a difference.

Are my posts not appearing or something? ;)
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Sorry, What?

Just lots of repetiton of things `I've already said, 'sall
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