Morris Minor Owners Club

With the tailgate bolted up and in position everything was ready, or so I thought, for the cargo floor tabs to be welded to the internal support struts.[frame][/frame]

Welding the tabs was fairly straight forward, just plug welding them in where they would have been spot welded in the factory.
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Of course it was only then that I discovered the inner wheel arch on one side had popped down, Blast. I managed to push it back up behind the outer wheelarch, but I may need to weld this joint to keep it in place.[frame][/frame]

davidmiles wrote:As yours is an immaculate, together pickup, you probably don't notice that aspect.

Oh you have no idea - but thanks all the same

Looks good all the same. I might take on that dark wheels colour scheme, sets off the hubcaps nicely.

well before I can even think of colour schemes, back to the nitty gritty of my re-build, I had to cut through my neatly welded tabs to enable me to lift the inner wheelarch up above the outer wheelarch. Ive welded it back together and it now needs tidying up with a grinder and flap disc.[frame][/frame]

But at least the wheel arch looks better now with the inner up above the outer rim, I put a couple of plug welds in there just to ensure there's no future sagging down again. Now that is done I can think about the doors and front wings. Back to work tommorow so I'll have a bit of rest from crouching and the back breaking, leaning over metalwork.[frame][/frame]

That looks like a horrible rust trap, how did the 2 parts connect originally. I am sure that you have a cunning plan!!

originally spot welded
and yes thats why they rusted out there

On the subject of rusting through, the bottom panel under the drivers door has seen better days, though generally the doors seem to be in quite good condition apart from this patch on both doors.[frame][/frame]

With the rubber stripped out and the loose rust wire brushed away, the k rusted bottom patch looks worse, but what is actually there looks clearer. The black pitted lower surface is the interior side of the door skin. A nice thin cutting disc in my angle grinder will help me get rid of the rusted remains of the bottom panel. Then new metal can be welded in to replace it.
I notice in the Haynes manual that this piece is available as a repair panel, but it looks fairly easy to make from sheet.
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The rusted out portions have been cut away with a thin cutting disc in preperation for new metal to be welded in.

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That channel on the bottom of the door David, holds a big rubber seal that sits over and against the sill covers, you can buy the channel new from the suppliers. Therefore, if it makes your task easier, take it off and replace the whole bottom section with new metal. Then buy a new channel and fix it on.

If you follow Dean's advice/suggestion, the strip you buy will be ultra thin, therefore welding it in place is tricky, if you try to weld the sides of this strip to the door bottoms you will blow the sides away, it's that thin. I managed to fix it by drilling some 3/16'' holes (not too many) along it and plug welding---very carefully! Also make a note of its position before removing.

les wrote:If you follow Dean's advice/suggestion, the strip you buy will be ultra thin, therefore welding it in place is tricky, if you try to weld the sides of this strip to the door bottoms you will blow the sides away, it's that thin.

I also had this problem, plus it proved pretty hopeless at gripping the seal.

Agreed, mine was gripped better after closing the channel by tapping gently along it with a piece of timber.

Thanks for that, could you tell me about this part, I think its the door steady, prevents the door opening too wide in strong gusts of wind, the holed part screws to the door post, but does the rubber seal end just free float like this, or is there some part missing in the door panel, like a rubber seal ect.[frame][/frame]

Mine just floats freely, David, but I guess that doesn't tell you anything about the standard Minor! I've never seen, say, a grommet that fits there on any of the parts sites.

There should be a grommet in there, BM lists it as part # DCH108 @ 75p

yes ther is a rubber grommit, but the are round and the hole is more square, they all waays fall out complete waste of time and money

it does help prevent a bit of draught though

The 2 doors that I just put new grommets in have round holes and the grommets were a nice tight fit.