Morris Minor Owners Club

Glad you used the metal parts rather than glueing the cardboard templates on! You know lives could be at risk here.

or paper mache, being a keen model maker, plastic, Brass and superglue would do nicely thank you. What rust treatment do you use on bare steel Les? I want to get hold of some metalready from frosts that Dean advised, when was it? seems like years ago, but it was just last year.

great work there mate! it will be great insperation to my project, as to the other so and so i could use alot of words but i wont your doing a really great job and i hope he doesnt comment on my section as im going to be using an old oil tank cut up to form my panels! but thats just the way it is for me!. will look foward to seeing it completed! cheers
patrick

Cheers Patrick, don't worry about any disparaging remarks from the so and so, that particular so and so upset to many people who have put effort into this website, won't be seeing anything from him again. This site isn't about putting people off, its about help and encouragement. Looking forward to seeing you using metal recovered from another source.
Might just learn a thing or two from you're idea there. Like everyone says, there is more than one solution to a morris minor problem.

glad your not easyily put of your doing a great job id love to have a pick up one day and thanks! im really looking foward to cruising this summer in my 2 door, the only way i can repair my car is using what metal i have laying around although today i found 3 in a scrap yard along with 2 brand new sills! which is usefull!
patrick

David, I generally use a zinc primer on bare metal, one thats compatible with cellulose paint from my point of view. I have had great success using jenolite and wire brush on de-rusted parts as it is one of the few products with an acid content, other products seem to go for 'converting' the rust rather than trying to get rid of it.

I don't understand these so called rust converters, the metal has deteriated and broken down therfore how can one change this back into real metal? surely this is impossible ?
I more suspect that these coatings simply stop the rusting process and inhibit it.

Been following your thread and the previous project so I'm keen to see how you get onwith your learning curve more pics please
I'm learning lots in such a short time that I have been using this forum.

Yes I agree with you both, if its just surface rust its easy to deal with and make sure it wont return, any deep rust needs to be cut out and replaced with new metal.
Ive just had a great morning cleaning up my captive nut threads with an idea from Chickenjohn and the guys in the bodywork thread that I cut a groove in a bolt to act as a thread cleaner. It worked absolutely brilliantly, the groove collected all the dirt and rust particles from the captive nut threads cleaning them up really well. The bolts glide in like new now, no undue strain on the captive nut cage inside the boxed sections. Perfect low cost alternative fix. Probably an engineering trick of the trade. I'm now going to clean up the threads in the door hing posts. Major step in the right direction for me.[frame][/frame]

Those brand new 5/16 BSF cab body bolts from namrick glide in smooth as silk.
[frame][/frame]

Getting the left side tub body on was a comparative piece of cake compared to the fiddle I had with the right side. The tailgate bolted on well, so the sides can be adjusted to fit up with the tailgate panel before I weld anything in. I found the tailgate hinge captive nut plates in the rear valance didn't accept BSF bolts, but metric M8 bolts fitted perfectly.
[frame][/frame]

Next. The rear cab body panel repair work. Looks like theres quite a lot to cut out and replace here. I want to take the time to get this welded up and fitted back onto the truck before I weld in the rear side panels.[frame][/frame]

I just wanted to add my encouragement and say keep up the good work and keep posting updates! I know virtually nothing about the LCV Minors so this is all very new and interesting to me. I really like the fact that you are trying to save as much of the original car as possible, including the side panels.

I notice you have done overlap and joddled repair sections for the tub sides. These are fine provided the rear of the repair where the overlap is protected thoroughly with seam sealer, paint and then waxoyl. Looks like you have recently done some butt welded repair sections on the second tub side, this is better than overlaps as it avoids the potential water trap. Might I also suggest for the cab back removing all the rust using phosphoric acid and repeated wire brushing rather than relying on rust converters which do not work for more than a few months if the vehicle is kept out in the weather.

It is great to see your welding, fabrication and confidence improve as the project goes on, keep up the good progress!

Thanks John. The repair pieces cut from new sheet metal, needs, cleaning, filing, shaping and bending. A bit basic but they are the right profile for the rusted out bottom edges of the cab back. The bottom edges are rusted through so narrow edges will be made as well, folded and welded in, these will then support the bottom pieces shown in this picture.[frame][/frame]

cleaned up and folded, these will replace the rusted bottoms of the cab back[frame][/frame]

Seeing your sanding disc in the photo, I wondered if you have seen/tried/got a black&decker powerfile. Best bit of kit I've used for a long time, especially with the zercon belts. Google powerfile, you may think it worth considering!

They look quite useful for those hard to get at places, like under the overhang at the top of the pickup sides, I'm off to checkout my new local Machinemart in Brighton in a few days, I'll check one out then, thanks for the tip Les.
Can anyone tell me if this is a genuine pickup spare tyre holder as advertised on Ebay, I can't imagine where it bolts on as the bottom flange would need to be where there is flat steel floor, or am I looking at it the wrong way. There wasn't one of these on my original pickup relic, so maybe it was missing or this is an original aftersale option?
[frame][/frame]

this is the spare wheel holder for a van, it bolts to the inside of the B post

I thought the spare wheel on the pickup just bolts through a threaded hole behind the passenger seat. Mine doesn't because the tonneau doesn't fit if you put it there - but the hole's there.

The cab rear panel as seen from the interior side. Part way through removing all the surface rust.rusted through metal at the bottom has been cut away ready for some new metal to be welded in.[frame][/frame]

As you would almost expect, two areas have rusted through that I was not expecting, the cab to side strengthening piece at the side, and a small patch the size of a penny on the left out of shot. Not too bad so far, but then again I'm not through removing all the paint and surface rust yet. So there may be more surprises later.[frame][/frame]