Morris Minor Owners Club

At the tear down stage we'd only expect the rusty stuff.

I'd say replace all of the drums anyway

Thanks Dan, the shopping list of new bits grows, just as a break from total rust war, here's a comparison shot of the new and old rear floor pans.ahhhhhh<br><br>

when ordering new parts do not forget to order any necessary nuts, washers and rubbers

Back to the Chassis, here Ive placed the chassis up on axle stands to have a good, close look...<br><br>

So Blast Treat of Arundel (Togs old mates) don't die laughing, or totally disappear in a massive dust cloud, I'm scraping away all this soft crumbly stuff, not rust, more like some kind of filler, anyway, just crumbles to dust now...<br><br>

leaving a rock hard bottom to the inside of the chassis leg. all the top plates are going to have to come off, this crumbly stuff could be everywhere.<br><br>

it may be a layer of metal coming off reducing the thickness by half

can not see what else it would be inside the chassis

oddly enough,but lucky for me I would guess, the top plates are held on with pop rivets, and in some places weld joints. Should be able to grind those off.<br><br>

having never actually seen a healthy chassis up close before, I can only compare it to pictures Ive been sent, the insert that forms the horizontal flanges at the top, in mine looks like its crumbled away, but there is also some kind of ceramic material, filler or preservative of some kind, thats crumbled away too, the rust among it is different and easy to spot.

It could be a 40 year old attempt at rust prevention?

never seen that before, but if the metal is sound underneath that layer then it should be ok i guess

Ive seen caked on fine mud/dust like that under my old MG magnette.

The whole underside/axle/springs etc were covered in it and it had formed a thick crust within the closed sill sections. I reckon mine was slurry from a farm or from a very dusty drive!!!

If its definately not brown rust or magnetite it wont be attracted to a magnet.

To check your chassis find an unrusted section - theres usually one somewhere! and measure metal thickness. you can then drill 1/8" test holes where you think there may be corrosion/thinning and check the thickness with a depth gauge.

Well despite hard times, Blast Treat of Arundel are doing alright, went along there today to check on work times, and they have seven days of shotblasting work, I'd have to take my chassis there and leave it there for over a week. Well done Blast Treat. I showed them a picture of the chassis and they advised me to get any rubberised rust preventative material off myself, the shot sand just bounces off. Its only good for paint and rust.<br><br>

Looks like very old rust to me. You could always get the chassis dipped & e-coated.

I pressume any Minor can have the shell lifted from the chassis like this? I've not gat as far as that on my strip down yet.

Thanks
Rich

No Rich, just the vans and pick ups had a separate chassis. Your traveller is unitary construction, each part depends on the rest of it being sound for strength.

DAVIDMCCULLOUGH wrote:No Rich, just the vans and pick ups had a separate chassis. Your traveller is unitary construction, each part depends on the rest of it being sound for strength.

Ah, thanks for confirming! that's what I first thought, but seeing the pick-up cab with the same roof as the traveller, I thought maybe the traveller could come apart like that too.

NOT the same roof as a Trav, which use 2 door cars as a base, but the P-Us and Vans use the 4 door. Only interchangable with a LOT of work - I've researched it...

Ive divided the chassis up into zones to make wire brushing it in stages easier to manage. Zone one is this front nearside outer leg.<br><br>

I realise now that in the few days before I recovered this project, while I was spending time clearing out the garage of bikes and garden rubbish, I should have whitewashed the walls. The light levels would be improved 100%. I'll have to get this done before I start any welding work.
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