Morris Minor Owners Club

The internal bore was examined up close and there seemed to be no worries there, nice smooth sides, no scoring. but what about that edge deep inside, anyone think that will cause me a problem, or does it just need a new set of cups and seals and a replacement push rod?.<br><br>

The pedals cleaned up nicely with the knotted wheel in the angle grinder, shown here in there red oxide primer paint.<br><br>

This all brings a whole new meaning to "labour of love" - I can't wait to see it when you've finished

Hope you can wait another four years and ten months ani, thats how long Ive scheduled it to take, and I've still got to learn mig welding yet! still my enthusiasm hasn't dropped off so far, lets see how much I slow down next winter, I may have to get a heater in the workshop.
Any comments on the master cylinder anyone?

I'd bin the clutch pedal as the shaft looks pretty well worn to me. Personally I'd just buy a new master cylinder.

I am not to sure about this master cyinder dave and I know its nice to say all original but this is what your life and your family and friends who travel with you will be relying on and if it fails 5 years of labour also goes down the drain

If its good as far down as you can see then should be fine. Firstly you don't use the whole stroke normally, so wear shouldn't be so great further down, also the bit that gets most attack from grit/ water is the top part. Looks good! I just hope you don't get depressed when you leave those primered bits for a year or so and find they are rusting out again

As an alternate to a new master cylinder, you can have a brass sleeve inserted to have a nice fresh original sized bore.

It's always good to learn new things. First time I got a good look at a RHD clutch pedal and I can see the linkage attachment is clearly just welded on a LHD pedal. In this case it looks like the LHD design came first with the RHD an afterthought except the LHD pedal has a removeable pedal so that the arm can go through the floor. Also in the Rose Taupe Traveller post I see that the floor has the hole for the clutch pedal as well as the headlight dimmer switch. LHD cars have the switch location but the gearbox cover is not universal and does not have a clutch pedal hole.

There is a flat rubber seal in the far end of the cylinder, not easy to see as it blends in well! I suppose the m/c is no different to one that is in regular use if the bore is sound, but the choice is yours. If you have any doubts buy new

Right Gents, new ms is on the list. I was out and about today looking for moggies in my local scrapyards, not one did I find. That same poker faced expression in return to my question "have you got any Morris minors in the yard?" the one and only classic car I laid eyes on was this very sad burned out Ford Consule in Bognor, couldn't get any closer due to loading operations, scrap yards are dangerous places for the unwary.<br><br>

Still, it gave me a sense that I was doing up something quite rare and hard to find. Back on track, the front suspension is next on my list of challenges, where do I start here?<br><br>

Get the kettle on!

Sounds like good advice - I sure hope all this doesn't drive him to drinking anything stronger

I think I'd already be on something stronger Think a good spray of penetrating oil might be a good idea before tackling the suspension

where do I start here?

Remove the drum and brake shoes + the big nut that holds the hub on (LH side is LH thread!!) and pull the hub off (puller not needed).
This gives access to undo the 4 bolts that hold the brake backplate onto the kingpin.

Then the nuts/bolts that hold the 2 lower suspension arms together can be removed.
When the torsion bars are loaded you need to take care when release the rear arm as it's preloaded.
With unloaded torsion bars it should be simple to remove the front (tin) arm and then move the lower trunnion pin forward and release the lower trunnion from the rear arm.

hope they are all right as kingpins are hard to get at the moment
i do have some new old stock ones tho

make sure you take the bottom fulcrum pin out before taking off the bottom trunnion

and as said a good dose of releasing fluid
then have tea

good luck you have a lot of work ahead of you, but do it in stages, obviously photograph all stages for reference
and expect the expected and you will have no surprises

Looking at the condition of the frame, there is no need to worry about the torsion bar being loaded.

David, did you take this project on without previous Morris experience? If so, bless you and it speaks volume of the power of forums like this one.

Yes,this is my first dip into the world of moggies, never owned one before, something about them though. probably ever since seeing madness singing "I like driving in my car" on top of the pops in the eighties, the whole band sitting in an open top moggie, has sowed the seeds in the back of my mind to get one as a project. Anyway, thanks everyone, I'm now putting the kettle on.

Now that I've been informed about what to do with the front suspension, ( many thanks ) I can put that on my next thing to do list. today Ive been cleaning up the prop shaft, it really helps keep the garage clean and tidy, and the components are much nicer to handle without dipositing rust all over hands and overalls<br><br>

if you need any help at all i am not that far away from you

i do have some spare pick up interior bits, also have quite a bit of new old stock mech bits

keep up the good work

hope to see the pick up at rallies in a few years time