Morris Minor Owners Club

Farvie wrote: ↑Fri May 16, 2025 2:31 pm Car won't start, my new pump clicked very slowly, took fuel line off carb and turned it over and not fuel coming out,

Lets go right back to the beginning.

You said 'turned it over'.... Looking back at the photos, the car is Pull Start.... was the Ign on?

Farvie wrote: ↑Thu May 22, 2025 12:01 pm New earth lead fitted, battery at 12.5v and still not sucking up fuel, blew down fuel line and it bubbling in tank, sucked up fuel to try help it flow, still not pumping any fuel into the pump, it's not click fast goes like 1 click a second then a tad faster.
Pumps new recon
Fresh fuel
Fuel line not clogged.

One Click a second is about right if the Float Chamber on the Carb is full, or the float valve is blocked....
There's something basic wrong here, and I'm not convinced it isn't being lost in the snippets of info going around....

"New" and "Recond" are not the same. If you take the pump off the car and try it connected to a 12v battery what happens? Does it click quickly then when not connected to the fuel line? If it still clicks slowly then the pump is faulty

Ignition is on, trys to start with easy start down the air filter, I removed the fuse pipel to the carb pipe, nothing coming out at all.

Would points in pump cause it to run slowly?

Pump is from club spares, and has all new parts fitted to it.



quote=ManyMinors post_id=708474 time=1747916297 user_id=22826]
"New" and "Recond" are not the same. If you take the pump off the car and try it connected to a 12v battery what happens? Does it click quickly then when not connected to the fuel line? If it still clicks slowly then the pump is faulty
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Does everything look OK on pump, and I can't get the gauge into gap?

Have you tried to prime the pump?

mowogg wrote: ↑Thu May 22, 2025 4:15 pm Have you tried to prime the pump?

SU Pump does not need priming. If working properly, the diaphragm is more than capable of sucking the fuel from the tank.

Farvie wrote: ↑Thu May 22, 2025 3:50 pm Does everything look OK on pump, and I can't get the gauge into gap?

Correct.
When power off, the Contacts have to be closed in order for power to connect to the Pump Coil when power is applied.
Coil then energises, pulling the central rod up, which moves the diaphragm up to bring fuel, or air, into the chamber.
This upward movement, via the double hinge design, breaks the contacts and with power removed, the spring in the bottom pushes the diaphragm down, expelling the fuel (or air).
Contacts close, and it happens all over again.

When the Carb Float Chamber fills up, the float closed the valve, this results in a 'block to the fuel, resulting in diaphragm not being able to expel contents of chamber. Pump therefore stops with contacts in the open position until the fuel gets into the float chamber of leaks back toward the tank past the Pump inlet valve.

When I say I can't get gauge into to points gap, I mean when they are open.

As per earlier post I find you need to wet the valves to get them to work after a long lay off. I layed up mine this winter and the pump would click but not pump fuel. I squired a little wd40 down into the delivery tube and the pump started to pump straight away

This is why I said about priming which was probably a bad description.

I did the valves thing when you first mentioned it, it's just not having it.

Has it or has it not been confirmed that the pump clatters away when connected directly to the battery with no pipes connected? While doing this cover the inlet, does it slow down or even stop? Do the same with the outlet. It also is odd to see the points mechanism up against the body while disconnected to everything. I suspect the diaphragm is not adjusted correctly.

Hi.
It was ticking slowly, now it's not clicking at all.
I'm going to send it back tomorrow.

Farvie wrote: ↑Thu May 22, 2025 6:20 pm When I say I can't get gauge into to points gap, I mean when they are open.

You don't gauge the points, the setting up is done on the adjustment 'devices'...
I'm assuming the Pump has new Double Contact Points. the correct place for measuring the gaps are as shown here, towards bottom of page:
https://sucarb.co.uk/technical/technica ... reassembly

The instructions in the Minor Workshop Manual are for the original 1950s type, single contact contacts.

Maybe clutching at straws here, but the original pedestal, rather than one that had been 3D printed, is a finely honed piece of 1930s Bakelite technology.
Note that there is a tiny little ledge on the edge under the Contact Blade.
. .
When correctly set up, there is a 0.090" gap under the bottom Stop Finger....
. From the photos that Farve posted I can't see if the ledge is there or if there is a 0.090" gap on the Stop Finger....

Mine has stopped doing anything all together now, so I'm sending it back tomorrow just in case there's a fault with it, I'm hoping they have another one to send me.

This is my old pump,
It's different to the newer one.

Farvie wrote: ↑Fri May 23, 2025 7:36 pm Mine has stopped doing anything all together now, so I'm sending it back tomorrow just in case there's a fault with it, I'm hoping they have another one to send me.

Certainly seems to be faulty in some way.

Farvie wrote: ↑Fri May 23, 2025 8:51 pm This is my old pump,
It's different to the newer one.

Thanks for that image.
That's actually an interesting photo, for me at least, as someone with an interest in the history of changes to the Pumps over 90 years.
That's a configuration of the points that I wasn't aware of.
It's got the single contact, but the adjustment design of the latter 2 contact type.

This is all I knew of. The single contact design on the left, which is as illustrated in the Workshop manual (so circa late 1940s to ??) which is set up in relation to the gap under the 2 white rollers, and the current 2 contact one.
Yours seems to be a design from in between.

These 2 are on my 'gash box' of pump bits.....
.

It did confuse me seeing double points, pump using click great until this year after being sat for 6 years, but I've just been doing more test on new pump using jumpers cables and battery and just odd click and a strange noise inside that I can only describe as pump fart lol
I had a tinker with my old pump doing things you guys have mention, and actually got it pumping at fast pace running of jumper cables, I'm hoping the club can sent another pump out or resolve issue with this one as my old one needs a overhaul of all new parts, and that's somthing I'd like to do at a later date as I want to get this on the road ASAP.

Top and bottom or that pump

Farvie wrote: ↑Fri May 23, 2025 8:51 pm This is my old pump,
It's different to the newer one.

Thanks for that image.
That's actually an interesting photo, for me at least, as someone with an interest in the history of changes to the Pumps over 90 years.
That's a configuration of the points that I wasn't aware of.
It's got the single contact, but the adjustment design of the latter 2 contact type.

This is all I knew of. The single contact design on the left, which is as illustrated in the Workshop manual (so circa late 1940s to ??) which is set up in relation to the gap under the 2 white rollers, and the current 2 contact one.
Yours seems to be a design from in between.

These 2 are on my 'gash box' of pump bits.....
.
20250523_141402.jpg
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