Morris Minor Owners Club

Tighten the bearings to remove any play but slack enough to turn the disc. Set up the dial gauge and see what the run out is.
If the run out is bad you should get feel back through the brake pedal in that the pedal will go up and down sufficient to let you know that all is not right.

(Sigh) Do note that PTH wrote “dial gauge”, not dti. He has more patience than I.

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Thu May 13, 2021 8:09 pm (Sigh) Do note that PTH wrote “dial gauge”, not dti. He has more patience than I.

Can never remember the difference!

Have a look at https://www.cnccookbook.com/dial-indica ... uide-2018/

Thanks. College is quite a while back now, and these aren't the sort of thing I use in every day life!

philthehill wrote: ↑Thu May 13, 2021 5:46 pm Tighten the bearings to remove any play but slack enough to turn the disc. Set up the dial gauge and see what the run out is.
If the run out is bad you should get feel back through the brake pedal in that the pedal will go up and down sufficient to let you know that all is not right.

I'll give what you say a go, though I am feeling nothing unusual through the brake pedal. A quick and dirty test with the wheels up and my wife operating the brake pedal shows that the o/s wheel spins freely, with no sign of any binding, and that when the brake pedal is applied, the wheel locks, and when it is removed, the wheel frees off again immediately. All this proves is that it's not the o/s caliper sticking.

I'll try the dial gauge test tonight, then I'll get the hub off and see if I can remove the carriers.

The wheel will spin freely as the disk will have pushed the disc pads away from the disc rubbing face.
I agree from what you describe in that the calliper/piston is not sticking.

Duplicate post

philthehill wrote: ↑Thu May 13, 2021 1:24 pm The bearing outer race/carrier in most cases can be easily knocked out of the hub and does not need specialist tools or knowledge just a good punch and a hammer.
As well as knocking out the old bearing outer race - the new bearing outer race can also be knocked into the hub.

I've tried removing the carrier using a punch, and I'm not getting anywhere. There is no groove inside the hub, behind the carrier, and there is just not enough of a lip exposed on the inner face of the carrier. The lip on the rear of the carrier inside the hub is probably less than 1mm wide, and the punch invariably just slips off. I'm wary of damaging the hub, as I think it is an alloy hub.
I'll have another go tomorrow, but I can see this ending either in taking the hub to a garage to press out the old carriers, or a new pair of hubs.

Why don't you try gently warming the alloy hub so it expands a bit, the carrier might just drop out.

Phil P

pgp001 wrote: ↑Sat May 15, 2021 8:39 am Why don't you try gently warming the alloy hub so it expands a bit, the carrier might just drop out.

Phil P

That has occurred to me, but it's full of grease and I'm loathe to stick it in the oven, so I'll try warming it in front of a fan heater first.

Managed it!

It took two goes in an oven at 110deg C (the grease melts at 120), and a fair bit if clouting, but both carriers dropped out.

Getting the news in should be easier, as I can put them in the freezer to shrink them slightly, and the hub in the oven to expand, and they should just drop in. As long as they are home properly, all should be good.

The only question in my mind is whether it is a good idea to file a groove either side of the inner hub bore, such that there are two places where a punch can get a little more purchase on the back of the carrier? Thoughts anyone?

cheers N

Well done.
Provided that there is sufficient metal to do so and the groove is no deeper than the tip of the punch being used I would make two grooves opposite each other to make the next time removal much easier.

Yep, agreed, file away.

Old outer race is excellent for driving the new one in ;)

Ta. I'll do that, might use my Dremel.

I'll heat up the n/s hub in a plastic bag, in boiling water. Less smoke from the oven, happier other half!

Both sets of carriers now removed. I heated the n/s hub up by wrapping it in a plastic bag, and placing it in a large pan of water, which I then raised up to boiling point (while Mrs E was out, so she is blissfully unaware!). 2 min with a hammer & punch in the vice, and they were out.

Here are all 4 carriers, side by side. N/s on the left, o/s on the right. The small amount of damage to the lower edge is due to being hammered out with the punch.

First carrier in, the outer on the o/s. Despite the carrier being in the freezer for 30 min, and the hub in the oven for the same time, it still needed a fair bit of tapping in with a hammer and socket. I started it with a g-clamp, but only got about halfway.

Very normal, they should be a good interference fit, a hammer with a drift, or the old outer race is a good way to get them in square.

Can need a proper clout

Only problem with using the old carrier as a drift is..... How do I then remove it when it becomes stuck in the hub along with the new one?

ndevans wrote: ↑Tue May 18, 2021 4:04 pm Only problem with using the old carrier as a drift is..... How do I then remove it when it becomes stuck in the hub along with the new one?

You either grind down the circumference, or cut a slot in it before doing so....