Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello,

after I honed last night for a long time, I end it now. There are some deep scratches (vertical) and also the rust pits I do not get eliminated! (see pictures) There I will loose compression or getting oil in. I got a good offer from an engine reconditioner, so I'll let it drill and hone.

What is the first oversize - it is 0.020 "- that is 0,508 mm? Then they had to bore 65,088mm? The block and the rest of the engine looks so good - It's much too good for the scrap and I will rescue.

Dirk[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Dirk,
I didn't think the bores would clean up. The bores on the 1275 engine I am building looked very similar. I took the block to the machine shop and they measured it up to confirm the oversize required. I bought the pistons and rings and they bored the block to match.
I will send you the head hopefully on Friday.

Regards
Declan

Declan, thank you for your response.

Yes, that's the way I want to go too.
At weekend I can get a measure gauge and then I will have a look to the bores to decide which oversize I need. And then I will bring the parts (with the new pistons) to the shop.
Are there the pistons in different qualities? Are NOS better than new? what should I put attention on? Or does not matter?

Thanks for sending the head

Dirk,
I would take the block to the machine shop before buying the pistons and rings. Have them measure it up. Then you can buy the pistons and rings. Some machine shops will want to supply the pistons and rings.
I would also recommend you discuss engine balancing with them.
I sent you the cylinder head this morning. You should have it on Tuesday.
Regards
Declan

Engine balancing is only necessary for competition use. If you do anything - then you need to do it ALL to have any point in the exercise.

Before I give now the engine block to drill and honing, today we had controlled the crankshaft and camshaft .
Camshaft in perfect condition - small rust scar on a cam, but ok.

But the crankshaft - there is a bigger problem.
The crankshaft has a stroke. The front main bearing wobbles around 2/10 mm.
Rears all good! The central bearing I can not measure at this time because the appropriate gauge is missing. And now? If it is now necessary to have now also modify the crankshaft, then the overhaul died here.

What do you mean?

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I am finding it difficult to follow your English but I don't think you can test the crank shaft like that, it has to be balanced using support blocks on the front and rear main bearing faces and as BMC says it's not worth trying to get the balance 100% correct unless using the engine for racing but just check to see if it is true.

I wouldn't worry about the 'wobble' - what are you setting it up against? By '2/10mm' do you mean 0.2 mm (8 thou to me..) and I suggest may be more to do with the end support than any defect in the crankshaft. just the size of the journal and how much it is worn from new is what should concern you.

amgrave wrote:I am finding it difficult to follow your English but I don't think you can test the crank shaft like that, it has to be balanced using support blocks on the front and rear main bearing faces and as BMC says it's not worth trying to get the balance 100% correct unless using the engine for racing but just check to see if it is true.

Hi there,
sorry for my english - I try my best but it´s not easy to used the "special" words - the technical english.

And the second sorry for the questions!
it´s my first time - I never opened an engine before. No - no signs of worn at the crankshaft - for me it looks perfect from that point of view! Different people tell me different opinions to the parts and I try to find my way to do the things. But I say thank you for your responses here.

When using a lathe to check the ovality of a crankshaft main journal it is better to mount the rear of the crankshaft in a accurate 3 or 4 jaw self centring chuck with the front supported in a live centre.
Using the chuck and live centre will also show up any twist or mis-alignment in the crankshaft as all main bearing journals should run parallel to the lathe centre.
Phil

If there's no wear - just fit new shells.

So - job done - first time ever - valves .. new grinded (right word?) nice job - bought me a little tool for £15 doing it with the power drill ...

Thanks to Declan for the "new" head!
Now-waiting for the NOS KS pistons, should come tomorrow. Just sending my endless parts list to ESM
Next week I should go to the engine rebore and then I can finally begin with the assembly.

Cheers[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

We would say 'ground' for the job of grinding in the valves (ie I have ground in the valves) - but don't worry - we understand perfectly - and a good job there too!

Fine yesterday my new pistons arrived, tomorrow I will call the engine company ...
Cheers

What oversize did you decide to go for ?

I go to plus 020" oversize

Dirk,
Download the proper Morris Minor Handbook!
Regards
Declan

Morning Declan,

lying next to me - printed and fresh laminated for the workshop.

Cheers

Good- just need to hope 10 thou per side cleans up the bores ok - I think it will. I notice they are cicrclip type pistons - early 1098 engines had a 'pinch clamp' small end (so no circlips) - and these conrods are to be avoided.

bmcecosse wrote:Good- just need to hope 10 thou per side cleans up the bores ok - I think it will. I notice they are cicrclip type pistons - early 1098 engines had a 'pinch clamp' small end (so no circlips) - and these conrods are to be avoided.

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yes thats right that are cicrclip type pistons!

tomorrow at 8:00 am I going to be in the engine company to drill and hone! I will report!

cheers