Morris Minor Owners Club

bmcecosse wrote:When the fanbelt failed - how did you get home? Hopefully you didn't keep driving.... Can you try jump starting from another car ?

I kept driving - didn't realise the fan belt had failed until the battery got drained from the lights and wipers being on. If I'd realised I'd have stopped, especially as I had breakdown cover. So I am worried it overheated. I can only hope that the air hitting the radiator (50-60mph) kept it from getting too hot.

There is no mayonnaise under the filler cap.

Worried about the repair bill. Spent as much as I could afford on this one because the last one I (briefly) owned years ago cost a third of the amount and was totally rotten.

I had planned to have put it up on ramps by now to see what, if any, welding is required for the next MOT. Maybe get same garage to have a wee gander under it while they're looking at the engine.

Sorry if i'm repeating something but If you can remove the spark plugs then maybe try turning the engine round by hand via the front pulleys to see if there are very tight spots. If it was a modern engine it would have been distorted and ruined without water circulation for sure, fingers crossed your good old cast one is ok but the air flow at 50 - 60 mph might help in keeping still water cool in the radiator but would be doing nothing for the block cooling.

Is your ignition / generator light working Ok. It would have come on when the belt broke.

I wonder if the plugs could have been ruined with the extra heat due to no water flow round the block. That would explain the lumpy running and they could have managed to get you home but when you stopped the heat build up due to no air flow at all might have cracked them or at least a couple?? Quite a cheap one to check.

MrIan wrote:I wonder if the plugs could have been ruined with the extra heat due to no water flow round the block. That would explain the lumpy running and they could have managed to get you home but when you stopped the heat build up due to no air flow at all might have cracked them or at least a couple?? Quite a cheap one to check.

Good idea - thanks. I'll whip them out next chance I get and take a look at them.

If you drove 30 miles with no fanbelt - it's very likely the piston rings/pistons/possibly bores have been ruined. The water pump wasn't turning - so no water circulating except perhaps a tiny amount of thermosyphon round the front of the block. This is why you MUST carry a spare fanbelt.... Could also have ruined the plugs and valves/cylinder head/head gasket. No wonder it runs roughly.... Was there any oil in it ?? I'm afraid it was a big mistake.. As others suggest - does the engine turn at all now - with pulleys/fan ? Why is there no starting handle - have you checked in the boot? Take the spare wheel out and rake around in the space..

Assuming that is the (worst) case, any idea what kind of repair bill I would be looking at? Or should I look for an engine transplant? I realise it's all hypothetical at this stage. The oil level is spot on, it's still exactly where it was on the dipstick (roughly half way between markers) when I collected it.

Lesson learned :-/

If the car got you home, then you turned it off, and since then it won't start, it is extremely unlikely to be seized. If however it ground to a halt while running and since then you've not been able to start it, it could be seized.

I see you have been scolded (unlike the engine that has been scalded!!) but these things do happen - I lost my fanbelt on my old Traveller years ago on the way to work, and didn't notice (the charge light that comes on is conveniently shielded by your left hand on the steering wheel when driving...) and drove 25 miles, with no obvious ill-effects. The engine ran on when I arrived, as it was hot, but after I'd figured out what had happened and replaced the fan belt, all was fine and the engine went on for years afterwards, eventually in a different car as well. This, incidentally, was on quite a warm summer's day. Minors are more tolerant of this than other cars because the large radiator allows a bit of thermo-syphoning.

By the way, is there still water in the radiator?

So, check what others have said, and don't necessarily fear the worst just yet.

The car was running fine until I stopped and switched it off. The engine has run again since then, but it was lumpy and low idle. Wasn't too bad, though still a bit rough, when revved a little. I don't think it's seized.

There was still (a little) water in the radiator. When I did stop it was steaming out the overflow pipe.

I've got my fingers crossed...

The engine might very well have been running at the point you switched it off, but the trouble is what's called heat creep is as the car is no longer moving nor the engine running it will get hotter stationary before it cools. The engines though are quite tough but you will have pushed it to near its limit if not past it. It's not all doom and gloom though, take the plugs out and try turning it by hand to make sure there's no tight spots. I'd start with new plugs if it turns OK. Maybe even turn the engine by hand and check the valve movement \ gaps. Even if the engine is goosed it's not a fortune to replace it so all's not lost.

recon engines start at £885.00 then you have to fit it and get the old one back to the supplier to exchange it

I wouldn't think recon as yet, an OK get you going engine can be had for about £100, just try to get one you can hear running.

Hopefully it may just need rings or a head gasket - if anything, Don't panic! But do check if it can be turned easily by hand with the plugs out - if not - no point making it worse by running it till it's been investigated.

Well, had it diagnosed. Engine wouldn't turn due to a poor connection in the electrics. Compression test revealed blown head gasket. Plugs were fine, but looked like car had been running very rich. Car's in the garage now for new head gasket, all the pistons and rings etc will be checked, it'll be serviced, tuned and generally given the once over.

Two of three classic cars sitting outside the little garage when I got there, a good sign. Guy clearly knew Minors inside out.

Now to await the repair bill - but at least it'll be done properly.

Clearly the engine was NOT running alright when switched off. Be there when he pulls the pistons out, and take some pics for us. He should also inspect the bearings, including the centre main....pictures again please !

Got an update today, I couldn't be there when work was done due to work. Head gasket has been replaced, pistons, rings etc inspected etc, needs a couple of new hoses, an indicator relay and one indicator unit, they've fixed the fuel gauge (which they say was very easy) and they're doing a "pre-MOT inspection". Requires a little welding to o/s sill...but overall it looks pretty solid. The mechanics said they love it.

It's a proper old school little garage, the owner of it has a beautiful traveller. I won't go into how I was recommended the place but I'm assured he's not the type of person to rip someone off or carry out unnecessary work, but what he does will be done properly.

My impressions of the place so far are excellent - but I guess the ultimate proof will be the finished thing/bill.

Where is this garage -Tarbolton ? And has the engine been run and tested ? Hope it all goes well - but do keep an eye open for the warning lights in future !

bmcecosse wrote:Where is this garage -Tarbolton ? And has the engine been run and tested ? Hope it all goes well - but do keep an eye open for the warning lights in future !

Yes. They were highly recommended to me by someone I know and trust, and from conversations with garage so far they seem thorough and very knowledgeable. From the prices they've quoted for decent quality parts they seem to be reasonable. The engine hasn't been run yet, they were still working on it when I called.

I'll certainly be keeping a close eye on warning lights and doing weekly oil, water & light checks from now on!

Very good idea...