Morris Minor Owners Club

Posted: **Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:20 pm**

Well the extended push rod did improve the clutch action, however I still can't engage my gears, so I will need to remove the gearbox and see if I have indeed fitted the friction plate the wrong way round.
Rain has stopped play for today though , being cold is one thing but cold and soaked I draw the line at..............

Thanks again for the links though, I am glad I bought the rod.
Best wishes,
Mike.

Posted: **Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:33 pm**

As I pointed out before - I'm sure you need a deeper carbon thrust. The wishbone can only go so far.....

Posted: **Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:22 pm**

Maybe you have the wrong "wishbone"? IIRC there are 2 different ones, one for the smooth case transmission and a different one for the ribbed case.

Posted: **Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:14 pm**

And THREE different carbon thrusts!!!

Posted: **Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:53 pm**

Hi BMC,
Do you (or does anyone else) know the part number for the deeper (thicker) carbon thrust (release bearing) that you are referring to?
I had a chat to a chap at MOSS today and the one quoted on your link (GRB107) is the standard one, which I will have got with the kit I bought, he didn't know of any other but said he may be missing something.............. so if you (or someone) could point me in the right direction I'll order one.
As to the release arm (fork) it is the one that came with the (ribbed) 1098 gearbox when we removed it from it's original engine.
I do have a spare (somewhere) that also came off a ribbed box.
On a lighter note, I have just ordered some thermal Long Johns to help keep out the cold.....
Many thanks,
Mike.

Posted: **Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:54 pm**

Hmmm - there was a thread maybe a couple of years back that definitely came up with 3 different carbons - sorry - I can't find it at the moment - but maybe someone with more patience/search skills will find it...

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2015 2:19 pm**

Hi,
Right, firstly, thanks for all the advice and input so far.
Secondly, the engine and box are out and apart (lovely sunny Sunday today and what am I doing!! ) and as you can see from the photos the clutch friction plate was the correct way round, so that's not the problem.
The clutch fork also seems to be straight, so I don't think it's that.
One thing I did notice with it all apart is that the clutch fork rubber gaiter limits its travel, I didn't have one fitted when I had the type 9 installed and never had a problem with clutch activation, by removing it I gain about 3mm of travel (that I can see with it all apart) could this help do you think??................
Best wishes,
Mike.[frame]

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As an aside the bronze bush seems to be firmly in place, any advice for getting it back out, as my clutch alignment tool won't fit with it in place......
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PS: I will give it all a good wipe out before it's re-instated.

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2015 2:55 pm**

A thicker (or more offset) carbon thrust is the answer here.. Check what's available. I can't believe the rubber gaiter would do much against your foot!! The real travel limit is when the carbon carrier hits the shaft... Use a valve grind tool to align the clutch - the wood shaft should fit in the bush - and then I just wrap some black tape around the handle to make up to the size for the clutch splines. Works for me.. If you remove the bush (grease and tight fitting steel bar - HIT it HARD) you will then need a new one - and it will be devil's own job to fit with the clutch in place.....

Posted: **Wed Mar 25, 2015 7:54 am**

In the past when fitting various combinations of engine/flywheel/clutch/carbon thrust I have had to do the following:-

Relieve the aperture in the bell housing to allow more travel for the clutch release arm.

Fit either a 1098cc/1275cc clutch release arm.

Re-profile the clutch release arm.

Fit either a 1098cc/1275cc clutch release bearing.

Remove carbon from the clutch release on the side opposite the lever arm to allow more travel without it fouling the first motion shaft.

Not all of the above are used at the same time but the above may be of help.

Phil

Posted: **Sat Apr 04, 2015 10:20 am**

Hi,
Firstly, as always, thanks for your input and advice.
After speaking to a friend at MADMOG, I rang Charles Ware, they fit 1275's with the Moggy gearbox, as an option, on a regular basis.
They were very polite and helpful, their solution was a kit which consists of (and here's the ironic part if 'mike1970mog' is still reading this, as I returned his to him) a re-drilled Minor flywheel with new ring gear (which you have to fit), clutch cover with stronger springs (deeper Morris Minor 1098 style rather than the shallower 1275 Midget style I tried previously), friction plate and guess what ---- a deeper carbon thrust bearing (I have kept it's box, on the front it states 'GRB107', which must be the part number for anyone looking --- standard for 1098 Midgets???).
I also bought a new lock tab washer for the flywheel bolts and a new spigot bearing (needle roller type), which I found, when it arrived, had a Morris Marina 1300 label on it and doesn't fit! So I have re-used my existing brass spigot, which looks okay and does fit................
(As an aside I need to replace the MGB's clutch and that uses a brass spigot bearing as well, so which is better? Brass or needle roller??)
Anyway, I had to enlarge the bolt holes on the replacement flywheel to get them to line up with the ones on the engine, as they were slightly out --- some more than others!! I re-drilled each hole out to the same width, so as not to unbalance it. This made the holes wider than the bolts of course, although the flywheel itself is locked in position by the two metal dowels. To strengthen things up I cut the mangled lock tab parts of my old flywheel lock washer and filed the edges, so I effectively ended up with a series of linked washers, I then fitted this under the new lock washer. This enabled me to tighten the flywheel bolts up to the prescribed 40lbs. ft. without the worry of the bolts pushing the lock tab out of shape anywhere.
Flywheel and clutch fitted, engine and gearbox back together and re-installed into Abby, ancillaries and exhaust manifold reconnected but not the interior or radiator yet (just in case I have to pull it apart again.....), time to start her and see if the gears will now engage............
Flat battery............... ............. now on charge.................
I have taken the opportunity (while I wait) to fix another issue that has been bugging me.
I have replaced my rear drums and shoes, I had some new ones in store anyway (and now I will buy more), as I find (and I am sure that I have heard others complain of this also) that after a while, noticeably more on the passenger side for me, that they develop a tight spot, caused I am told by the drums going slightly oval.
Is this down to heat or inferior modern metal in the new replacement drums we buy?
This must be the fourth time I've replaced the rear drums on Abby in the eight years I've owned her.
Anyway, once I have a battery fit for purpose, I will be trying for forward (and backward) motion, I will let you know..............
Best wishes,
Mike.

PS: Does anyone want a brand new MG Midget 1275 three part clutch kit, out of its box but effectively unused, as it was unsuitable for my purpose (as it turned out).
Advertised on eBay, see link below.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171743409966? ... 1555.l2649

Posted: **Sat Apr 04, 2015 10:50 am**

I told you AGES ago that you needed a thicker or more offset carbon thrust! Hope it all works now.... The crankshaft bearing matters little - there is only relative movement when you have your foot on the clutch - and as we all know, with the carbon thrust and the weak thrust washers in the engine, it's very important to absolutely minimise time when the clutch is held down.... So the porous bronze bearing is perfectly satisfactory.

Posted: **Sun Apr 05, 2015 3:55 pm**

Lovely day today, just right for a test drive into the Peak District...............
Nice to be back behind the wheel after what feels like an age.
The village is called 'Whatstandwell' I believe......
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And one of that BMC rosette that I mentioned in another post, this time in place, along with my 'period' first tax disc. (The registration showing on it was the original registration of my car, before someone relieved her of it! )
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A few teething troubles after she's been standing for so long but great to get out and about in her again.....
One is the fan, the original Moggy item off the 1098 originally fitted, scraping a bit whilst on rotation. I have tried bending it slightly, this has worked in the past but now I have a plastic Midget fan to fit, I found the link to this is in another post on here, I'm just waiting for the longer bolts from Moss (promised for Tuesday).
In the meantime she needs a good clean!
Best wishes,
Mike.

Posted: **Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:39 pm**

Nice

Morris Minor Owners Club

1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

Re: 1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?