Morris Minor Owners Club

Yes -tap tap is the answer. MARK IT FIRST so you are sure which way round to refit it - this is ultra important - and yes good tip about refitting the bolts a few threads...

Ok, had a spare 30 mins tonight so took the opportunity to take your advice Katy/bmcecosse and i got the cap off successfully. This is what I can see, which from the Haynes says it should be the crankshaft main bearing.

Obviously not easy to see in a photo but i can confirm the surface feels smooth with perhaps the tiniest (barely noticeable) surface groove.

[frame][/frame]

Bearing in mind the original engine symptoms, what else should i be looking for here? I'm no expert (true fact!) but nothing appears to be 'breaking up'??

Matt

Looks reasonable to me, just check the rods have no obvious up/down/side play at the journals. Clean the centre cap faces, round the dowels and where it bolts to the block, put the thrust washers either side, (steel faced sides against the cap)tighten the 2 bolts to the correct torque (tightness) then replace the sump with new gasket and cork end seals. Looks like the problem's elsewhere.

Have you tried rotating the crank to listen out for where the noise may be coming from?

That doesn't look 'too' bad - can we see the bearing shell in the cap please?

Photo of bearing shell in the cap as requested. All looks in quite good condition to me

Forgot to turn the crank and listen for noise, will do that next time i'm out there and post the answer.[frame][/frame]

Where has the whitemetal gone?

That is NOT in 'good condition'... The surface has gone and it's down to the leaded bronze. The thrust washer doesn't look too clever either. You are 'lucky ' that it is leaded bronze - has probably saved the crank from too much damage. The wear shown is entirely due to shortage of oil - ie it has been run low on oil, so on corners - the pump sucks air....... You will need a full new set of bearing shells - and un -fortunately to fit the rear main shells - the crank has to come out - which means engine out... It's up to you - the centre and front mains can be changed in situ, just not the rear mains. All the big-end shells will also need changing - can you pop off a big end cap (one of the ones next to that centre main) so we can see the crank surface - and the shell. Again - mark the cap so you know how to refit it! I would fit a complete exchange crank , and a new oil pump - but you may get a few more thousand miles out of it with new shells.

Oh dear, seeing the cap, perhaps you'd better not box it up again as I'd previously suggested!

oh well, at least the investigation of the problem has resulted in a match to what everyone thought was wrong anyway i.e. worn crankshaft bearings.

After having done lots of research and talked to quite a few experts, plus you guys, it does seem like this particular job is too much for my basic skills, and if I was to try it myself it would be off the road for months (lack of time, tools, and a garage!) so I'm leaning towards a reconditioned engine for Monty. I want to be out there driving it!

Better warn that family its Tesco Value range from now on!!

Now, how to word this with my wife......!!!

If it was running ok and not burning oil - it just needs an exchange crankshaft and a new oil pump. Your local garage could do that - but at what cost? The labour will be more than just swapping an engine over - but the parts much less. Is there no-one local who could yank the engine and help you swap the crank over? Could be done easily in a day! This is where a 'branch' should be able to pool effort -and help each other out - in exchange for Jaffa cakes + tea, of course....

I'm attending my first North London meeting next week so I'll ask around. Jaffa cakes and tea are certainly in my skills set!!

That's the idea! Round up the troops !

did you ever get this sorted?