Morris Minor Owners Club

No need to 'buy' - Google is your friend!

Untill you sort the pump you will not be adjusting anything yet.but the basic setting for the carb is to screw the nut right up/in then back out /down counting 12 flats. then when running use the lift pin as described to optimise the setting.

What is the history of this engine, have you ever had it running,you don't say.

Before you tinker with anything else on the carb take the air cleaner off and check that the
piston inside will raise easily with you finger and falls with an audible clunk.

The new points came, which made me happy, since I was expecting a much longer wait. However they did nothing to make the pump work any better.

I am now looking at a replacement pump, but as far as small electric pumps go, they are really quite expensive. Has anybody replaced theirs with a modern, cheaper alternative that they can recommend?

I would buy a cheap one temporarily, but I know I will probably have to cut the fuel line, and run a hose from the stub to the different pump, making it very difficult to go back to the old kind of S.U. pump if the cheap pump doesn't work.

In your instance, I would disconnect the low tension (white) lead from the output of the distributor, and use a 12V test lamp connected between the output terminal and the battery +12V terminal.

Then, crank the engine over slowly on the starting handle; the test lamp should flash on and off as the points open and close.

If not, then you have a problem with either the points or the condensor, or the engine-to-body earth strap, that fits between the engine block and the chassis rail.

The distributor points is just a simple switch, that switches the ignition coil to earth - so not much to go wrong!

And yes, repair that bodged wiring to the fuel pump. Again, use the test lamp connected between the cable to the pump and earth (battery '-') and switch the ignition on; the bulb should light.

Was it fuel pump points you were waiting for? Most modern pumps will be no use - the SU pump is a 'sucker' - it sucks up fuel from the low mounted tank. Modern pumps are generally designed to run with flooded suction. Just strip and rebuild the pump as per the Manual - it WILL work.

SU pump rebuild kits are inexpensive and pums are easy to repair.

If the diaphraghm in the fuel pump is screwed in too much/too little it'll never work. Screw it in just until when pushing the diaphraghm in the points stop "throwing over" (you'll notice the mechanism click and spring back) and then go back about 4 holes.

Test it dry outside the car with 12V, it should tick very quickly. (once it starts pumping fuel it'll slow down)

And also - the diaphragm must not be too tight - the ring of screws must be slack while the diaphragm is held full stroke - and the screws are tightened.