Morris Minor Owners Club

Check your gas is on turn up your wire feed and slow down it looks like you need to practice but don't try on new steel find some old stuff it does weld different set up on a bench its a good job your into moggies and not patching a boat hull

And also keep close don't let your wire get too long

gillwood wrote:Check your gas is on turn up your wire feed and slow down it looks like you need to practice but don't try on new steel find some old stuff it does weld different set up on a bench its a good job your into moggies and not patching a boat hull

Thanks. I've cranked up the wire feed and the power. I've only got 4 power settings - and it looks as if the best setting for what I'm doing is somewhere between setting 3 and 4 - so i'm switching between those. More wire feed has made an improvement and I'm keeping close and trying to slow down on my coverage rate (think that's my biggest problem). It's getting better but I see what you mean about boat hulls - I just plated up a box section, drilled a hole in it to squirt in so rust encapsulator (brilliant stuff!), and it just flooded out from my welds! As BMC says - don't expect water-tight

Hmm - well - it shouldn't be THAT bad..........

Buy some seam sealed or tiger seal it can make any weld look a million dollars its easier and a better job to cut out the bad bit and weld the plate in flush

I may be a bit late but I have only just seen this posting. Butt welding like you are doing is very hard as there is always a bit of a gap somewhere.

Start at a corner or near a corner, and just do a blob of weld (don't try to manage a run on thin metal as it will probably end in a hole, or worse) moving your wire from side to side a couple of times. Now stop. Move your attentions to another area, maybe a corner and do the same. And so on. After the corners are finished tap everything back into place as there may be a bit of flexing.

Go back to the original area and weld either side of the now cooled weld (welding appears to work better if the metal is hottish). Still just do spots and touch the original weld with your new one.

I actually find it is better to work the opposite way from normal. So I am working from R to L across the work-face. Never seen anyone else do this so it is an idiosyncracy of mine.

But I don't think you should try to make a run of weld. Lots of little spots are a lot better than horrible holes that appear like magic.

Have fun, Allan

Thanks Allan. The more I practice - the better it gets. I like your idea about adding extra welds each side of the first weld. Think my biggest problem is trying to work too fast - I need to slow down and concentrate.

I bet there is not a welder on this site who has not managed a heap of bird-droppings at some time and hoped no-one was around to see it prior to grinding it off and starting again. Take your time and enjoy the final product. Then use plenty of sealant and wax.

Have fun. Allan

Joined-up-dots is all very well for getting the patch held in place - but you NEED continuous runs to make a solid repair.......

Roger,

What face mask are you using? There are some good, inexpensive, auto masks around now and make life sooooo much easier! Bought mine at Beaulieu a few year ago, and wish I had had it when I did the restoration 15+ years ago.

IslipMinor wrote:Roger,

What face mask are you using? There are some good, inexpensive, auto masks around now and make like sooooo much easier! Bought mine at Beaulieu a few year ago, and wish I had had it when I did the restoration 15+ years ago.

Yes, I bought a good one a while back - can't blame my lousy welding on that