Morris Minor Owners Club

philthehill wrote:If you decide to fit the screw on canister oil filter head you can if you want to use the longer (13cm) Ford screw on oil filter i.e. FRAM Part No: PH5210. The more filter the more crud it will catch. To compliment the oil filter use the ESM magnetic oil sump drain plug Part No: 10M247A.

I didnt no ESM did a magnetic sump plug, just ordered one on line. £9.48 inc vat and postage. A good idea they are

Unlikely to catch anything significant in a Minor - there shouldn't BE any steel parts floating around. Different story in a Mini with gears gnashing away in the sump.

Regarding the magnetic drain plug - As they say in the supermarket advert 'Every Little Helps'.

A neodymium magnet or two tucked into the oil filter may be a better bet !

Another trick is to glom a neodymium magnet onto the outside of the oil filter.

Hi
My spin on FRAM is PH966B,hope this helps

The Halfords part no is HOF303.

Lambrettalad & Trickdicky
The filters you quote are they longer than the normal spin on canister filter fitted to 'A' Series with the spin on convertion?
If you read my earlier quote you will see that the filter I have fitted to my Minor is 13cm long from the sealing face. The whole idea is to get as large a filter as possible because the greater filter face of the element inside the canister the more filtering will take place.

mine is the one supplied with the spin on kit from the minor centre ,I think the extra filtration you require will have a minimum if any effect on your oil .A more frequent oil and filter may give you the protection you are after.Good luck

At the moment mine has the Fram filter on as I bought it last year in a service kit from a shop in Bristol

The specs for the Fram are,
Height : 91 mm
Ø exterior : 78 mm
Thread : 3/4"-16

The Halfords one is the same spec.

Alex & Richard
Many thanks for the info.
Phil

Back to the original "cannister" problem and the previous filter being fitted incorrectly. I have contacted the immediately previous owner and he never changed the oil as it was "clean" when he got the car (he only drove it twice since getting it in Jan 2008).
Going by the mileage on the last MOT and service (Dec 2007) and when I got it in September 2012, it has done less than 50 miles and that is at the over-clocked distance (given the speedo reads 50mph at a real 30mph).
Looks like I don't need to worry about the old filter not having done any filtering during that short mileage.
The engine is currently filled with Comma Classic 30 (SAE 30) oil and a FRAM paper element filter.

30 oil is too thick, and too thin.. Get the 20W50 in there at the next oil change!

yes ,it's not got the optimum viscosity for the operating temperatures,even tho straight 30 is in the original specs.Oil technology has moved on from the 50's

SAE 30 is too thick and too thin? What does that mean BMC?
Is that why my engine is purring like a cat (quietly)?
Original spec was 30 SAE. The Comma oil I put in was made to Original Spec for Classic and Vintage cars.
I also happen to have some Tesco's Mineral Oil (not synthetic) at 10W40 rating for "older petrol engines" - would that do?
With my previous Morris, I always used to use Castrol Oil. Anyone know if Comma oil causes Mayo, like Duckham's alledgedly did?

No oil 'causes Mayo' - that's a viscous lie about Duckhams which is a very good/well respected oil - although a bit too expensive for me. Mayo comes from engine running too cold/too many short runs/insufficient crankcase breathing - or of course in extremis - a blown head gasket..... The 30 is too thick when it is cold (sae 30 against sae 20 of the 20W50) and too thin when it is hot (sae 30 against the 50 of the 20W50). And while 10W40 will be better than your SAE 30 - it's not as good as 20W50 for your engine. Your sae 30 will be fine in the gearbox !!

It's a real shame Filtrate aren't still going as that was a very good oil.

Thanks BMC. Shame I've used up nearly all the SAE 30 I had (originally bought to oil my Myford 7 lathe) in the current engine, so won't be able to use it in the gearbox. I note that Comma also do 20W50 for older cars.
You can easily generate "mayo" by adding water to any miscible oil (like engineering cutting oil). I picked up on the anti Duckhams from some other posts.
As I've been running diesel engined cars since 1999, I've been using Castrol's Magnatec oil - they now don't make a separate one for Diesel engines, just one that supposedly is OK for Petrol and Diesel.
And talking of diesel engines - take a gander at this Series II 2 door ...[frame][/frame]
Not mine, but I did buy the Gold Seal 803 engine that used to be in this vehicle.