Page 3 of 3
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:20 pm
by bmcecosse
As long as the gasket is for the 1098 - not for the 1275 engine ? If so - crack on - you've got an hour to get it changed .......

Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:24 pm
by LordAnthony
It is - it was incorrectly ordered "just in case" for my other car in the days before I realised it was a 1275!
Sadly the kaput car is 13 miles away on my Mum's driveway or I'd be sitting here lapping away now.
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 9:09 pm
by LordAnthony
Took the head off today - The head gasket had blown between 3 and 4 and had a broken exhaust valve spring on 4.
Would one have caused the other to occur do you think?
For what it's worth, I've attached a pic of the cylinders in case anyone can see anything odd.
Is there anything else I should do whilst the head is off? It has a new bypass hose with shiny jubilee clips already.[frame]

[/frame]
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:00 pm
by bmcecosse
Pistons 2 and 3 look remarkably clean! You need to clean all the block top - ideally unscrew all the studs - countersink the stud holes slightly - and clean the whole surface but without rubbing it locally if you see what I mean ! I use the square end of a 12" steel rule - something like that - no rubbing with emery! Then refit the studs - make sure the bypass is NOT a corrugated one. On the head -same as block for the head face - best to examine the valves closely after cleaning them (spin in electric drill) - and grind in ALL the valves very carefully. And no - the broken spring wouldn't cause this.
This is where a spare head is really handy - you could be back on the road right away - and sort out the original head at your leisure!
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:36 pm
by LordAnthony
Right you are. A spare head would indeed be handy.
Thanks for all the help. I'd be lost without this forum.
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:52 pm
by chickenjohn
The pipe from the vacuum advance on the distributor is missing, or did you take it off with the carb?
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:56 pm
by LordAnthony
Well spotted! That was me - it was a copper one and was in the way rather.
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:41 am
by Declan_Burns
Minispares sell a silicone by-pass hose which is supposed to be fit and forget. I fitted it on mine and have had no problems with it.
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 313&title=
Regards
Declan
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:32 am
by MarkyB
A picture of the old head gasket would be interesting.
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:32 am
by bmcecosse
You obviously haven't 'forgotten ' the bypass hose then Declan............after fitting it.

Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:20 pm
by Declan_Burns
I will remember it for a long time and especially taking out the old short bypass stub and fitting a longer stainless steel one.
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:54 pm
by Kevin
Much cheaper and almost as long lasting is a small piece of the correct heater hose.
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 7:12 pm
by LordAnthony
Photos![frame]Blown gasket:

[/frame][frame]

[/frame][frame]Overly Pitted?

[/frame][frame]Broken spring:

[/frame]
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:15 pm
by MarkyB
Amazing the compression test was so balanced with that chunk missing from the gasket!
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:24 pm
by bmcecosse
I do think you need a new exhaust valve - and a spring........
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:43 pm
by LordAnthony
It is odd isn't it? That's why I thought that perhaps the broken spring could have had something to do with it. But I don't see how. Either that or I did the something horribly wrong with the test but I don't think I did.
I've got a whole new set of exhaust valves and a spring on order.
Is it best to clear out all the oil ways with something before I put it back together?
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 10:05 pm
by bmcecosse
Just squirt some oil through from an oil can. The broken spring may have contributed to that bad valve - if it allowed it to 'float'. It likely be quite a job to grind in the valves - I assume you don't have a spare head ? And - if one spring broke like that - the rest are likely to be the same age and have had the same service life....... I would have fitted all new........ When the new spring arrives - line up all the springs on a flat surface - side by side - and compare their length with the new one.. I don't think you will like what you see.
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:41 pm
by LordAnthony
Bah! After buying new valves and springs I've just noticed that the head has a crack between 3 and 4!! It's just visible in the photo above. That'll teach me.
I'm on the look out for a replacement head if anyone has one?
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:30 pm
by bmcecosse
Oooh yes - I see the mark - most unusual........It must have seriously overheated at some time ? Good chance to fit an upgraded head! But there are some 12G202 heads on ebay - although a 295 is an improvement - the real way forward is a 940........
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/A30-A35-A40-Minor ... 19bd9d1aeb
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :MEBIDX:IT
4 x 940 heads!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MIni-1275-Austin- ... 3f015dc70d
Re: Knocking when warm
Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:41 pm
by metalmagpie
Big ends are a lot more of a rattle than mains and you can "play" them by varying the engine load at fairly constant revs. The latter is/are a deep distressing thump and are worse a low revs. and the rear can be felt in the clutch when bad. Small ends are a lighter tap and are worse at light load as the revs rise.
Hope that makes sense, one has to experience them to recognize them and I have had known them all, to my sadness and expense at times.