Morris Minor Owners Club

I don't bother with the drain plugs. Just take the bottom radiator hose off and let the water drain away.

Yeah thats what I did this time, I'm just wondering where they are incase I need them. I know the one on the engine is to the rear left of the engine, but I don't really know what it looks like.

Cheers,
Chris

Situated just below the side tappet cover at the back end of number four cylinder Chris, probably a hexagon head brass or steel plug (3/8" BSP I think), mustn't be a tap fitted in your case or you'd easily spot it. I'll try and get a pic. but it's a v. difficult place to access with a camera. You'll probably need a socket with extention to reach.
As suggested re radiator just remove the bottom hose, if there is a drain tap fitted it's painfully slow anyway and possibly bunged up.

Sorry a bit blurred and missed the "h" out of exhaust

whatch out with radiator drain plug. you can ruin your rad playing with it

Nearly there , cheers for the help so far.

But I now require some ideas of you all; everything is now off the head, but we can't even budge it for some strange reason. So far we've tried:

tapping with block of wood and a hammer
banging with a block of wood and a lump hammer
trying to unwind the studs (but studs are too short)
a course of WD40 and 3 in 1 oil down the studs
lifting with a crowbar
cranking the engine with sparkplugs in
spinning the engine with the sparkplugs in
and using a length of wood to jack the head (by resting it against a manifold stud)


All ideas greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Chris

Crikey! talk about stuck!. I bet some twerp used setting
gasket goo on the gasket (you should not use anything).
can only suggest that you use a thin wood chisel to try
to part the joint whilst still having your wood under the
manifold studs lifting the engine weight. You could also pour
'releasing fluid' down all the head studs and leave to soak in.

k cheers willie, will have a try at the chisel idea soon.

Oh, we also had a go at tapping the studs with a hammer and the nuts on.

Cheers,
Chris

The 'releasing fluid' is much more penetrating that WD40 etc.
The only time I had this trouble was with an MG 1300 head
which turned out to have a bent head stud which locked the
lot solid. The chisel sounds drastic but COULD only need inserting
at ONE point to cause the head to release if the weight is on
the manifold studs?

Gasket goo is a liklely cause - I had at least one that needed the chisel / screwdriver treatment. Bad memories of the gasket being stuck to the head and block and having to shear it through the middle to get the head off.

The worst I had was a Mini 1275GT I ended up standing in the engine bay across the engine and trying to lift the head upwards between my legs, while my mate whacked it with a mallet! Amusing stuff! It shifted eventually but there was no gasket goo present........

Keep trying mate, it will shift eventually!

One point...if using a chisel then have the sloping face pointing
upwards. the flat face being down makes it less likely to damage
the block. It is easy to sort out the head, much more difficult to
sort the block.

i always leave the manifold on the clyinder head, and the carb studs in there. the manifold gives you somthing to get hold of when removing the head. the carb studs, well theres no reason to take them off.
you can always remove the manifold on the bench. much easier there

Chris If you need to use a penetrating oil use Plus Gas penetrating/releasing fluid its the best there is also give it some time to work. 3 in 1 oil and WD40 are not the same although 3 in 1 did used to do a penetrating fluid.

There's also a "freeze release spray" sold by Wurth that you may get from a motor factor or mechanic.
Not tried it yet myself but I've heard good reports....
Apparently works in the reverse of applying heat but with no danger of warping or "letting down" the material.....

Yey its off!

In the end it took the jack method, a blow lamp, two crowbars, a pit of the chisel, and a lot of penetrating fluid. I don't think much damage has been done, but I am taking the head to a machine shop tomorrow.

It all came down to one stud, which was rusted solid, and kinda looks like the exhaust has been running up it.

Cheers for the help,
Chris

Oh, now its off how can I tell if it's unleaded or not?

Cheers,
Chris

Ah, I have found http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... pic&t=2008

Cheers,
Chris

You should be able to see the hardened seat inserts after you remove the valves, they are a stainless/chrome type of finish and should be a contrast to the surrounding head metal.

Here's Chris' link:

http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... pic&t=2008

Hi, my clutch isnt incredibly low, but as i come off the clutch with the car in neutral, theres a noticeable grinding/whirring i guess its the release bearing, but dont know how much noise it should be making anyhow. Ben